Vegetarians on the Via Francigena rejoice, with such a selection of meat-free dishes en route, the only problem you’ll face is knowing which one to choose! Here are some of my favourite Tuscan staples senza carne, in light of my recent trip walking the Via Francigena in Tuscany.
The Mighty Tarfufo
Any sign of tartufo — the famous Tuscan truffle — on a menu should be seen as an immediate opportunity to sample this extraordinary local delicacy at its finest. Truffle dishes come in wonderfully varied forms: Tagliatelle, Ravioli, pizza toppings, infused oils. There are a number of different varieties to look out for, but San Miniato is the undisputed capital of the famous white truffle Tuber Magnatum Pico, which comes into season during the autumn months — perfect timing if you are walking the route in October or November. We have a dedicated post on truffle season in Tuscany if you want to go deeper into the world of tartufo, including a simple recipe to try at home before you go.
Truffle hunting is a long-standing tradition in the Tuscan countryside. Traditionally pigs were used to sniff out the precious fungus, but nowadays the work falls to specially trained dogs, a considerably more reliable partnership, given that pigs had a habit of eating what they found before anyone else could get near it.
Bruscetta
Was there ever a food so effortlessly satisfying as the perfect Italian bruscetta? The pleasing combination of freshly diced tomato on crunchy bread, topped with a little olive oil is the quintessential example of the beauty in simplicity. Bruscetta when done like this never fails to deliver.
Ribollita
This thick, hearty soup made with bread and vegetables is something akin to a hot water bottle after a long day’s walking. Ribollita is the epitome of peasant food: comforting, wholesome, and made from the cheapest and most accessible ingredients available — which in Italy, fortunately, means a bountiful supply of fresh produce. Peasants and pilgrims alike can eat like kings on the Via Francigena. For a broader look at what to expect at the table along the route, our guide to food on the Via Francigena covers everything from regional specialities to practical tips for eating well on the road.
Vegans walking the route can also take comfort here, as Ribollita generally contains no eggs or dairy. That said, if your diet is particularly strict, it is always worth asking before ordering — and our FAQ on special dietary requirements has useful guidance for both vegetarians and vegans on any of our routes.
Pasta Pasta Pasta!
Ravioli, Tagliatelle, Spaghetti, Fusilli, Lasagne, Farfalle, Linguine, Penne… are you hungry yet? Italy’s pasta culture is endlessly varied and almost always vegetarian-friendly by default. After a day on the road, a bowl of well-made pasta in a quiet Tuscan trattoria is one of life’s more reliable pleasures.
Pizza
Whether it’s bought from a street vendor and washed down with beer sitting in a medieval plaza or eaten sitting down at a nice restaurant with a glass of Chianti. Pizza done right is the perfect food. And Italians always get it right.
Italians often like to keep their pizza toppings simple, sometimes even omitting the cheese which is good news for anyone avoiding dairy. Most menus feature the pizza marinara, a pizza base topped with just some tomato sauce.
Hungry for more? Our post on favourite food experiences in Tuscany is full of ideas for making the most of the table along the route — and if you are walking the Via Francigena as a vegan, our vegan on the Camino guide has plenty of practical advice that applies equally well to the Italian pilgrimage trails.
Do you have favourite dishes for vegetarians on the Via Francigena? Let us know in the comments below. For more information on walking or cycling the Via Francigena, get in touch with our travel specialists.
Truffle season in Tuscany
The Via Francigena walking and cycling route passes through the beautiful landscape of Tuscany giving you the ideal excuse to sample their famous local delicacy. To celebrate the truffle season in Tuscany we have come up with a few unique truffle ideas for you to try out at home or even better, when you visit the stunning region. Italian culture has always been synonymous with delicious, fresh food produce. I am lucky enough to be heading in the direction of San Miniato with my colleagues to cycle from Lucca to Rome. The cycle will take us along the Via Francigena route in late October, perfect for the harvest season. For me (an eager Irish forager) this is the ultimate foraging experience. We will arrive in Tuscany during the harvest season when the rare truffles, Porcini muchrooms, wine grapes and olives will be ripe and plentiful. To prepare for our trip I have been doing a bit of truffle research. Here are a few ways that you can enjoy the much loved truffle:
Truffle Fairs
One of the best ways to see, taste and learn about truffles is to attend one of the many truffle fairs in the region. These food packed fairs are free celebrations of the delicacy where market stalls are filled with truffle oil, samples of the rare white truffle and entertainment for guests. Chefs from all over the world descend on Italy during the festivals in search for the fresh white and black truffles to bring back to eagerly awaiting customers. San Miniato hosts a renowned annual truffle festival during the last three weekends in November.
San Miniato hosts a renowned annual truffle festival across the last three weekends of November. It is one of the highlights of the Tuscan calendar, and given that the town sits right on the Via Francigena route, timing your walk or cycle to pass through during the festival is very much worth considering.
Truffle Hunting
We will be joining local truffle expert Massimo and his dog to sample the art of truffle hunting in the medieval town of San Miniato when we visit in October. In the past, pigs were used for truffle hunting but they were eating the truffles before the hunters could reach the valuable commodities. Nowadays trained dogs are partnered with truffle experts, making them a prized combination for gathering truffles. Truffle hunting is an ancient tradition in Tuscany and requires that all participants respect nature. Massimo will give us a short briefing before we continue through the beautiful forests of Tuscany. He has promised to unveil the secrets of truffle identification, the legends of the truffle and the best ways to use the truffle in the kitchen.
Truffle hunting is an ancient tradition in Tuscany and one that demands respect for the natural environment. Massimo will give us a briefing before we head into the beautiful forests, and has promised to share the secrets of truffle identification, the legends that surround the harvest, and the best ways to use what we find in the kitchen. I cannot wait.
Truffle Recipe
Check out this simple but delicious recipe that the experts in Tuscany have revealed to us.
White Truffle Eggs
Two fresh eggs
Olive Oil (preferably extra virgin Tuscan)
Salt
White Truffle of San Miniato
Put a little olive oil in a small pan (make sure it’s fire-resistant) and heat it up slowly, break the two eggs and pour them into the pan. Add a pinch of salt and let it cook slowly. Once it is almost cooked, slice the white truffle over the eggs. Cover the pan and serve. The Chef suggests using freshly baked bread instead of a fork when eating the truffle eggs. Delicious!
Now all we need to do is get ourselves to Tuscany before the truffle season ends. Stay tuned for our updates on our visit to tasty section of the Via Francigena in October.
The beautiful walled city of Lucca stands as one of the true highlights of the Via Francigena, Italy’s celebrated pilgrimage trail from Canterbury to Rome. Many walkers choose to begin their Tuscan journey here, heading south toward Siena through some of the most rewarding walking country in Europe.
While some opt to start in San Miniato and skip the opening days out of Lucca, this is a city that genuinely repays a slower approach. With its cobbled streets, hidden corners, vibrant piazzas, and an energy that feels both ancient and alive, Lucca deserves at least a full day of unhurried exploration before you head out on the Via Francigena in Tuscany from Lucca to Siena.
Here are five things you absolutely should not miss.
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is Lucca’s most iconic square; its name gives away its origins. This stunning piazza, with its unique oval shape, is built on the site of a Roman amphitheatre. The tall buildings surrounding the square follow the original structure, creating a striking architectural layout.
The piazza is the perfect spot to bask in the sunshine, sip a coffee, and enjoy a treat from one of the many cafés. During the summer months, the square comes alive with open-air concerts and events, making it a lively and atmospheric place to visit. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or simply looking for a picturesque place to relax, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro offers a wonderful blend of culture and leisure.
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
2. Stroll the City Walls
Lucca’s city walls are an extraordinary feature of the town. Originally built in the 16th century, these Renaissance walls encircle the historic centre, forming a 4-km loop around the city. Unlike many other cities, Lucca’s walls were never dismantled and remain intact, providing a fantastic walking, cycling, or jogging route with panoramic views of the city.
Lined with trees, the top of the walls serves as a peaceful promenade, offering breathtaking views of Lucca’s medieval rooftops, towers, and surrounding Tuscan countryside. It’s the perfect way to experience Lucca’s unique atmosphere, with each season bringing its own charm to the tree-lined walk. The walls, which celebrated their 500th anniversary in 2014, stand as a testament to the city’s rich history and enduring beauty.
For pilgrims beginning their Via Francigena journey in Lucca, a morning circuit of the walls offers an ideal orientation to the city and a fitting way to get the legs moving before the real walking begins.
Lucca City Walls
3. Be Inspired by Puccini
Lucca is the birthplace of the world-famous opera composer Giacomo Puccini, and his legacy is ever-present in the city. Music lovers can visit Puccini’s birthplace, now a house museum in the heart of the town. This museum offers an intimate glimpse into the composer’s life, displaying his personal belongings, letters, and original scores.
Nearby, in a square close to his birth house, a statue of Puccini proudly stands, paying homage to Lucca’s most celebrated citizen. Throughout the year, you can also enjoy various Puccini-themed events, concerts, and festivals that celebrate his work. Whether you’re a fan of opera or simply interested in Lucca’s cultural heritage, Puccini’s presence adds an artistic and historical dimension to your visit.
Giacomo Puccini Statue, Lucca
4. Discover Lucca’s 100 Churches
Known as the “city of 100 churches,” Lucca is home to many religious buildings. Though visiting them all in one day is difficult, there are a few must-see churches worth exploring.
The Duomo di San Martino, Lucca’s cathedral, is one of the city’s most important religious sites. With its stunning façade and intricate interior, the cathedral is a must-see for anyone interested in art and architecture. Another essential stop is San Michele in Foro, a beautiful Romanesque church in the square where the ancient Roman forum once stood.
Each church tells a unique story through its architecture, artwork, and history, giving visitors a deeper insight into the city’s spiritual and cultural significance.
For pilgrims, Lucca’s churches also offer an opportunity to collect stamps for the pilgrim passport: a quiet, practical ritual that connects this visit to the long journey still ahead.
Lucca Churches
5. Climb the Guinigi Tower for Great Views
It’s skyline is defined by the Guinigi Tower, one of the most distinctive landmarks in the city. Constructed in the 14th century by the Guinigi family, this tower is notable for its height and rooftop garden.
The rooftop garden, where oak trees have been growing for centuries, offers a unique sight in the heart of the city. These trees, symbolising rebirth and renewal, are a rare and beautiful feature that can be spotted from almost anywhere in Lucca. Climbing the tower’s 230 steps is well worth the effort, as you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the entire city and the surrounding Tuscan landscape. It’s an unforgettable experience that gives you a bird’s-eye view of Lucca’s historic beauty.
Guinigi Tower
When to Visit Lucca
Lucca maintains a vibrant cultural calendar throughout the year, and timing your visit around one of its major festivals adds a memorable dimension to any stay.
July brings the Lucca Summer Festival, one of the most popular outdoor concert series in Italy, drawing major international artists to perform in the historic centre. The atmosphere on festival evenings is electric, though accommodation fills up quickly — booking well in advance is strongly recommended if your Via Francigena dates overlap with it. The Puccini and his Lucca Festival runs across multiple dates throughout the year and draws opera lovers from across Europe for performances dedicated to the city’s most famous son.
October and November mark the arrival of the Comics and Games Festival, the largest event of its kind in Italy — a remarkable spectacle that transforms the medieval streets into something altogether different and draws enthusiasts from around the world.
Spring and early autumn remain the finest seasons for walking the Via Francigena, and Lucca in those months: uncrowded, mild and bathed in good light.
Lucca Summer Festival
Practical Information for Pilgrims
Luggage transfers: Walking with Caminoways means your luggage transfers between accommodations are handled as standard, so you explore Lucca carrying only what you need for the day.
Fitness preparation: If you are building up to the Tuscan section of the Via Francigena, our Camino fitness plan offers a structured six-month programme worth starting well before your departure date.
Planning your route: For a full overview of the Italian stages, our Via Francigena articles cover everything from the Tuscany section to the final approach to Rome.
Lucca is a city brimming with history, culture, and beauty. Whether starting your Via Francigena journey or visiting for a day, the city offers countless unique experiences. Exploring it’s ancient city walls, Puccini’s legacy, and the Guinigi Tower offers unforgettable experiences. Lucca’s charm and rich history ensure it leaves a lasting impression on every traveller.
Is Lucca a good starting point for the Via Francigena?
Lucca is one of the most popular starting points for walkers tackling the Tuscan section of the Via Francigena. From here, the route to Siena covers approximately 200km and takes most walkers between 10 and 14 days at a comfortable pace. Those with less time can join in San Miniato and still experience the finest stretches of the Tuscan route.
How long should I spend in Lucca before starting to walk?
One full day allows you to cover the main highlights comfortably. Two days gives you time to go at a slower pace, attend an evening event, and leave feeling properly acquainted with the city rather than rushed through it.
How do I get to Lucca?
Lucca connects easily by train to Pisa (approximately 30 minutes) and Florence (approximately 90 minutes), both of which have international airports. The train station sits just outside the city walls, making arrival straightforward.
Is Lucca suitable for cycling as well as walking?
The city walls and the surrounding countryside make Lucca an excellent base for cyclists. Caminoways also offers cycling options on the Via Francigena for those who prefer two wheels to two feet.
Can Caminoways arrange my Via Francigena trip starting from Lucca?
Viterbo on the Via Francigena: Explore Italy’s Medieval Gem
Nestled in the Lazio region of central Italy, Viterbo offers one of the most captivating glimpses into the medieval world that any traveller or pilgrim could hope to find. As the most popular starting point for the last 100km of the Via Francigena to Rome, it is the perfect place to begin the final, most spiritually charged stretch of your pilgrimage to the Eternal City.
Boasting one of Italy’s best-preserved medieval centres, this city of just over 60,000 residents is rich in history, culture, and architectural wonders that have survived largely intact since the Middle Ages. Whether you are lacing up your boots for the Via Francigena or simply exploring as a curious traveller, Viterbo’s cobblestoned streets, soaring cathedral, and papal palaces promise an experience that stays with you long after you have moved on.
In this guide, we highlight the top things to do and see in Viterbo, the best time to visit, essential practical information for pilgrims, and answers to the most common questions from walkers planning the Viterbo to Rome route.
Viterbo divides neatly into two very distinct personalities. The historic centre, enclosed within well-preserved medieval walls, is a beautifully layered reminder of the city’s extraordinary past. Just outside those walls lies a modern, working Italian city with contemporary buildings, busy markets, and the everyday rhythms of local life. This contrast makes Viterbo surprisingly compelling — you can step from a 13th-century papal palace into a neighbourhood café within minutes.
It is, however, the medieval centre that truly sets Viterbo apart from other Italian cities. Wander through its narrow cobblestone streets, discover quiet piazzas where cats sleep on ancient stone, and admire arches and towers that transport you effortlessly back centuries. For pilgrims arriving on foot after days on the Via Francigena, entering through the old city gates feels like a reward in itself.
Step Back in Time: San Pellegrino Medieval Quarter
The San Pellegrino medieval quarter is at the heart of Viterbo’s historical charm. This picturesque area, tucked inside the city walls, is characterised by its winding lanes, ancient stone buildings, and charming piazzas. As you stroll through the quarter, you’ll find yourself immersed in a time when Viterbo was a bustling medieval hub.
Wandering through these streets, you find yourself in a space that feels remarkably unchanged since the medieval period — and that is no accident. San Pellegrino has been carefully preserved and today stands as one of the finest examples of medieval urban architecture in all of Italy. Every corner seems to conceal a fountain, a frescoed doorway, or a staircase leading somewhere unexpected.
For pilgrims, this quarter carries particular meaning. Many of the churches and buildings here once served as pilgrim hospitals, offering rest, food, and care to travellers walking the Via Francigena toward Rome — a tradition of hospitality that Caminoways is proud to carry forward today.
San Pellegrino Medieval Quarter
The Palazzo dei Papi: A Testament to Papal Power
One of Viterbo’s most iconic landmarks is the Palazzo dei Papi (Popes’ Palace) in the historic centre. This majestic 13th-century building served as a papal residence and symbolised Viterbo’s religious significance in medieval times. The palace’s distinctive Gothic architecture offers visitors a glimpse into the city’s vital role during the papacy.
Climb the grand staircase to the palace’s Gothic balcony, where you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape. This vantage point allows you to appreciate Viterbo’s historic centre’s beauty fully.
Palazzo dei Papi
Piazza San Lorenzo: The Heart of Viterbo
Immediately adjacent to the Palazzo dei Papi, Piazza San Lorenzo forms the true civic and spiritual heart of Viterbo’s medieval quarter. The square is anchored by the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, a Romanesque cathedral dating to the 12th century and dedicated to the city’s second patron saint, Saint Lawrence.
The cathedral’s exterior is restrained and dignified — clean Romanesque proportions that have endured for almost nine centuries without fuss. Inside, the atmosphere shifts to something quieter and more contemplative, with centuries of religious art and carved detail that rewards slow, attentive looking rather than a hurried visit.
For pilgrims, pausing here to collect a stamp in your pilgrim passport and sit quietly in the nave before the next day’s walking is a moment many describe as genuinely moving.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Explore Viterbo’s Romanesque Churches
Viterbo is home to numerous Romanesque churches scattered throughout the medieval quarter. Each of these churches has its own unique history and charm. Some of the most notable include:
Chiesa di Santa Rosa: This church is dedicated to the city’s patron saint, Saint Rosa. The saint is celebrated annually during the Santa Rosa Festival, a cultural highlight of the city.
Chiesa di San Sisto: One of Viterbo’s oldest churches, known for its beautiful architecture and historical significance.
Santa Maria Nuova is another Romanesque treasure that invites visitors to look back in time and admire its ancient beauty.
Many of these churches once housed pilgrim hospitals, providing shelter, medical care, and sustenance to the thousands of travellers who passed through Viterbo on their way to Rome along the Via Francigena. Walking these streets as a pilgrim today means following in a very long line of footsteps.
Chiesa di Santa Rosa
Renaissance Grandeur: Palazzo dei Priori
Viterbo’s story does not end with the medieval period. The city continued to flourish into the Renaissance, as the Palazzo dei Priori demonstrates with considerable elegance. Located in Piazza del Plebiscito, this 15th-century palace is worth a visit for its beautiful interior frescoes, grand halls, and the sense it gives of Viterbo’s continued importance as a centre of regional power long after the papacy had departed.
The contrast between the austere Gothic authority of the Palazzo dei Papi and the more polished, humanist confidence of the Palazzo dei Priori tells you a great deal about how Italian culture shifted between the 13th and 15th centuries — and Viterbo is a surprisingly ideal place to read that story in stone.
Palazzo dei Priori
Festivals in Viterbo: A Celebration of History and Culture
Viterbo’s vibrant cultural scene comes alive during its many festivals. Planning your visit around these events will allow you to experience the city’s lively traditions.
Santa Rosa Festival (3rd September)
The most famous event of Viterbo’s year, held annually on the evening of 3rd September. During this extraordinary celebration, over 100 men carry a towering illuminated structure — the Macchina di Santa Rosa — through the narrow streets of the old town on their shoulders. Standing over 30 metres tall and weighing around five tonnes, its procession through the medieval quarter by torchlight is a spectacle unlike anything else in Italy.
The tradition dates to the 13th century and is recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. If you happen to be beginning your Via Francigena walk from Viterbo to Rome on or around this date, consider staying an extra evening, it is the kind of thing that changes how you think about collective human devotion.
San Pellegrino Flower Festival (May)
For nature lovers, the San Pellegrino Flower Festival in May transforms the medieval quarter into a colourful garden. The streets of Viterbo burst into bloom with floral displays, making it a magical time to visit. The festival celebrates spring and the beauty of nature, with vibrant arrangements adorning the city’s historic buildings.
San Pellegrino Flower Festival
Other Things to Do in Viterbo
Beyond the medieval quarter, Viterbo offers other interesting attractions and activities for visitors:
Thermal Baths
Viterbo is known for its thermal baths, which have been famous since Roman times. Terme dei Papi is one of the most renowned thermal spas in the area. Relaxing in the natural hot springs is the perfect way to unwind after exploring the city.
Terme dei Papi
Museo Civico
For history buffs, a visit to the Museo Civico is a must. This museum houses a wide range of artefacts from Viterbo’s long history, including Etruscan, Roman, and medieval collections.
Viterbo Underground
Viterbo also has a hidden side that is waiting to be explored. The Viterbo Underground offers guided tours through the city’s ancient tunnels, giving you a glimpse into its subterranean history.
Viterbo Underground
When to Visit Viterbo
The best time to visit Viterbo is during spring and early autumn when the weather is mild and the festivals are in full swing. The Santa Rosa Festival in September and the San Pellegrino Flower Festival in May are trendy times to experience the city’s culture
Viterbo is a hidden gem on the Via Francigena, offering visitors a unique blend of medieval history, Renaissance art, and vibrant cultural traditions. From exploring the charming streets of the San Pellegrino quarter to relaxing in the city’s thermal baths, there is something for everyone in this captivating city.
July and August are the least comfortable months for walking, with temperatures frequently exceeding 35°C on exposed sections of the route. Winter walking is possible and carries its own quiet appeal, but shorter daylight hours and occasional rain should factor into your planning.
Practical Information for Pilgrims
Getting your pilgrim passport stamped: Stamps are available at the pilgrim office in the historic centre, at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, and at most hotels and albergues in the city. Your pilgrim passport journey to earn the Testimonium certificate in Rome begins here.
Getting to Viterbo: Well connected to Rome by train (approximately 1.5 to 2 hours from Roma Termini or Roma Ostiense via Orte) and by bus from Rome’s Saxa Rubra station. If travelling internationally, Rome’s airports are the most convenient arrival points.
Luggage transfers: Walking with Caminoways means your luggage transfers between accommodations are handled as standard. You carry only a daypack on the road while your bags travel ahead to your next hotel.
What to pack: Before you set off, our Camino packing list covers everything you need for the Viterbo to Rome route, including footwear, layering advice, and seasonal considerations. A downloadable packing guide ebook is also available.
Accommodation: Caminoways handles all bookings as part of your trip package, ensuring a confirmed bed each night without the logistics falling on you.
Viterbo in Context: What Comes Before and After
Viterbo sits at a natural gateway point on the Via Francigena. Pilgrims walking the full Italian route will already have passed through remarkable cities — from the medieval towers of San Gimignano to the beauty of Siena and the elegant streets of Lucca in Tuscany. If you are joining the route here for the final 100km, Viterbo offers an ideal introduction to the character of the Via Francigena: hospitable, historically rich, and deeply connected to the pilgrim tradition.
What follows is equally compelling. The route passes through the ancient town of Sutri, with its extraordinary Etruscan amphitheatre carved directly into the rock, before the gradual, emotional approach to Rome itself and the moment of arrival at St Peter’s Square that pilgrims have been building toward for days or weeks.
Whether you’re passing through on a pilgrimage or planning a longer stay, Viterbo’s rich heritage and warm atmosphere will leave a lasting impression.
Is Viterbo a good starting point for the last 100km of the Via Francigena?
Yes — Viterbo is the most popular starting point for pilgrims completing the final stretch to Rome. From here, the route is approximately 100km and takes most walkers 5 to 6 days at a comfortable pace.
How do I get to Viterbo?
Viterbo is well connected by train from Rome (roughly 1.5–2 hours from Roma Termini or Roma Ostiense via Orte). It is also accessible by bus from Rome’s Saxa Rubra station. If you are travelling from further afield, Rome’s airports are the most convenient arrival points.
Where can I get my pilgrim passport (credencial) stamped in Viterbo?
Stamps are available at the pilgrim office, several churches in the medieval quarter, and many hotels and albergues along the route. Caminoways can advise on the best places to collect your first stamp when you book.
What is the terrain like between Viterbo and Rome?
The route passes through a varied landscape of volcanic hills, forests, medieval villages and flat agricultural plains as you approach Rome. It is generally manageable for walkers of moderate fitness, though some sections have uneven surfaces and gentle climbs.
What is the best time of year to walk from Viterbo to Rome?
Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) offer the most comfortable walking temperatures. September is particularly special if you happen to be in Viterbo on the 3rd — the Santa Rosa Festival is an extraordinary sight before setting off on your pilgrimage.
Can Caminoways arrange luggage transfers on this route?
Yes — luggage transfers between accommodations are available and can be arranged as part of your Caminoways package, so you only carry a daypack while walking.
Do I need to book accommodation in advance?
It is strongly recommended, especially in spring and autumn when the route is busiest. Caminoways handles all accommodation bookings as part of your trip, ensuring you have a confirmed bed each night without the stress of planning ahead.
Is the Via Francigena from Viterbo to Rome suitable for beginners?
It is one of the more accessible sections of the Via Francigena, making it a popular choice for first-time pilgrims. As long as you are comfortable walking 15–20km per day, the route is very manageable with the right preparation and support.
What should I pack for the Viterbo to Rome walk?
Lightweight, breathable clothing, well broken-in walking boots, sun protection, and a refillable water bottle form the core of your kit. Our detailed Camino packing list and packing guide ebook cover everything specific to the season you are walking in.
San Gimignano, a medieval hilltop town in Tuscany, is a jewel along the Via Francigena. It is a key stop while walking from Lucca to Siena on this historic pilgrimage route, making it an essential part of the experience. With its unique skyline, rich history, and breathtaking views, this town offers visitors an unforgettable experience. Whether walking or cycling, San Gimignano is a must-see destination on your journey through Tuscany, let’s explore what makes this medieval town such a special place to visit.
San Gimignano sits directly on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome. For centuries, pilgrims passed through this town on their way to the Eternal City, resting within its walls before continuing south. Today, modern walkers and cyclists can follow in their footsteps. As you approach the town at the end of a long walking day, the 14 surviving medieval towers of San Gimignano come into view on the horizon — an imposing and deeply moving sight that has greeted pilgrims for over a thousand years.
It is also said that the bitter rivalry between San Gimignano’s warring noble families inspired Shakespeare’s plot for Romeo and Juliet. History here runs deep in every stone.
The Medieval Towers of San Gimignano
One of it’s most striking features is its medieval towers. Known as the “Manhattan of the Middle Ages,” the town once had over 70 towers. Today, 14 still stand, giving the city its iconic skyline. Noble families built these towers as symbols of their wealth and power. A walk through it’s streets is like stepping back in time.
Must-See Sights in San Gimignano
San Gimignano offers many historical and cultural experiences. Here are some must-see sights during your visit.
Piazza della Cisterna
The heart of the town, Piazza della Cisterna, is a lively, triangular square surrounded by medieval buildings and featuring a central well. It’s the perfect place to relax, enjoy a coffee, and soak in the atmosphere. The square is named after the cistern, or well, that provided water to the town during the Middle Ages.
Piazza della Cisterna
Collegiata di San Gimignano
The Collegiata, or San Gimignano Cathedral, is a beautiful Romanesque church in Piazza del Duomo. Inside, you’ll find stunning frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible. These frescoes, dating from the 14th century, are some of the finest in Tuscany. Don’t miss the Chapel of Santa Fina, which contains artwork by Ghirlandaio, a master of the Italian Renaissance.
Torre Grossa
Climb the Torre Grossa for the best views of San Gimignano and the surrounding countryside. At 54 metres tall, it’s the highest tower in town. From the top, you can see the rolling hills of Tuscany stretching out in all directions. The climb is steep, but the view is well worth the effort.
Torre Grossa
Walking the Via Francigena to San Gimignano
The Via Francigena route to San Gimignano is filled with stunning landscapes. Here’s what to expect if you’re walking or cycling the route.
Scenic Vineyards and Olive Groves
As you approach the town, you’ll pass through the Tuscan countryside, famous for its vineyards and olive groves. The region produces some of Italy’s finest wines, including Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Take in the views as you walk through this peaceful, rolling landscape.
Vineyards in San Gimignano
Wildlife and Nature Along the Way
The route to San Gimignano is full of natural beauty. As you walk, you might spot local wildlife like deer, rabbits, or birds. The landscape is dotted with cypress trees, giving the area its distinctive Tuscan character.
Rest Stops for Pilgrims
San Gimignano offers several rest stops for pilgrims. These are perfect for a break after a long day of walking. You’ll find places to refill your water bottle, grab a bite to eat, and rest your feet before continuing your journey.
San Gimignano’s Famous Wine: Vernaccia
San Gimignano sits directly on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome. For centuries, pilgrims passed through this town on their way to the Eternal City, resting within its walls before continuing south. Today, modern walkers and cyclists can follow in their footsteps. As you approach the town at the end of a long walking day, the 14 surviving medieval towers of San Gimignano come into view on the horizon — an imposing and deeply moving sight that has greeted pilgrims for over a thousand years.
It is also said that the bitter rivalry between San Gimignano’s warring noble families inspired Shakespeare’s plot for Romeo and Juliet. History here runs deep in every stone.
Wine Tasting in San Gimignano
If you have time, visit one of the many wineries in and around the town. Many offer tours and tastings where you can sample the famous Vernaccia alongside other local wines. A visit to a winery is a wonderful way to understand the landscape you have walked through — seen through the lens of the vines that cover it.
Local Cuisine in San Gimignano
No visit would be complete without tasting the local cuisine. The town offers many traditional Tuscan dishes that reflect the flavours of the region and reward a hard day of walking. Pappardelle with wild boar is a perennial favourite — a hearty, flavourful pasta dish beloved by locals and pilgrims alike. Ribollita, the Tuscan bread soup made with vegetables and cannellini beans, is simple, deeply satisfying, and perfect for tired legs. And for dessert, there is only one choice: Gelateria Dondoli, one of the most celebrated gelaterias in Italy, known for its award-winning flavours including saffron, raspberry, and Vernaccia wine gelato.
Pappardelle with Wild Boar
A popular dish is pappardelle with wild boar sauce. This hearty, flavourful pasta dish is a favourite among locals and visitors.
Pappardelle with Wild Boar
Tuscan Bread Soup
Tuscan bread soup, or ribollita, is another must-try. This dish is simple but delicious and made with bread, vegetables, and beans. It’s a perfect example of traditional Tuscan cooking.
Gelato at Gelateria Dondoli
For dessert, head to Gelateria Dondoli, one of the most famous gelaterias in Italy. Their award-winning gelato is made with fresh, local ingredients. Try flavours like saffron, raspberry, or Vernaccia wine.
Gelato at Gelateria Dondoli
Staying in San Gimignano
San Gimignano offers a wide range of accommodation, from boutique hotels in the historic centre to agriturismos in the surrounding countryside. Staying inside the medieval walls puts you within walking distance of all the main sights, and lets you experience the town in the early morning and evening, once the day visitors have left. For a more tranquil experience, farmhouses and agriturismos in the surrounding hills offer accommodation with pool, Tuscan home cooking, and panoramic views over the vineyards.
San Gimignano is a highlight of the Via Francigena, offering a unique mix of history, culture, and natural beauty. Its medieval towers, breathtaking views, exceptional wine, and delicious food make it a must-visit on any journey through Tuscany. For more information, contact our team or start planning with our Camino Planner.
San Gimignano is a medieval hilltop town in Tuscany, Italy, best known for its 14 surviving medieval towers — earning it the nickname “Manhattan of the Middle Ages.” It is also famous for Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy’s first DOC white wine, and for its exceptional Romanesque art and frescoes. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Is San Gimignano on the Via Francigena?
Yes. San Gimignano sits directly on the Via Francigena, the historic pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome. It is one of the key stops on the Lucca to Siena section and has welcomed pilgrims for over a thousand years.
How many towers does San Gimignano have?
San Gimignano originally had more than 70 towers, built by rival noble families as symbols of power and wealth. Today, 14 towers survive, giving the town its iconic skyline. The tallest is the Torre Grossa, at 54 metres, which is open to visitors.
How do I get to San Gimignano on the Via Francigena?
Most walkers reach San Gimignano as part of the Lucca to Siena route or the easier San Miniato to Siena option. The approach follows the famous strade bianche through Chianti vineyards and olive groves, with the towers of San Gimignano appearing on the horizon as you near the end of the day’s stage.
Can I cycle to San Gimignano on the Via Francigena?
Yes. The Via Francigena cycling route passes directly through San Gimignano along scenic gravel roads through vineyards and woodlands. It is one of the most memorable cycling stages in Tuscany.
What should I eat and drink in San Gimignano?
Try pappardelle with wild boar sauce, ribollita (Tuscan bread and bean soup), and the award-winning gelato at Gelateria Dondoli. To drink, the local Vernaccia di San Gimignano white wine is essential — crisp, fresh, and produced here since the 13th century.
Is San Gimignano suitable for families?
Very much so. The family walking route from San Gimignano to Siena is one of our most popular itineraries, combining medieval castles, museums like San Gimignano 1300, and manageable daily distances through the Tuscan countryside.
When is the best time to visit San Gimignano?
Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are ideal, pleasant temperatures, fewer crowds and the countryside at its most beautiful. Summer is busy and hot but the town’s festivals add to the atmosphere. Winter is quiet and atmospheric, with shorter queues at the main sights.
Historical Significance
The Val d’Orcia in Tuscany is a must-see region on the Via Francigena and a key highlight of the Camino to Rome. This historic route, originally known as Via Cassia, has crossed the Val d’Orcia since Roman times. Over the centuries, the Via Francigena has played a vital role in facilitating trade and the exchange of ideas between France and Italy. For many generations, merchants and pilgrims have journeyed through the Val d’Orcia, the valley of the Orcia River.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Val d’Orcia is celebrated for its outstanding natural and cultural significance. The landscape is a prime example of Renaissance agricultural design, where functionality seamlessly blends with artistic and aesthetic considerations — rolling hills, cypress-lined lanes, and medieval hilltop towns that seem painted rather than built.
Merchants from Siena settled in the Val d’Orcia in the 14th and 15th centuries. They meticulously planned the area, aiming to create not only an efficient agricultural region but also a visually harmonious and pleasing landscape. Today, the valley remains a protected cultural and natural park, carefully preserved for future generations.
Why the Val d’Orcia Matters for Via Francigena Pilgrims
For anyone walking the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome, the Val d’Orcia is not a backdrop, it is the journey itself. Several days of the route pass directly through this valley, making it one of the most memorable stretches of the entire pilgrimage. The landscape here is exactly what most people picture when they imagine Tuscany: golden fields, winding gravel roads, and a profound sense of timelessness that connects modern walkers to the millions who have made this same journey over centuries.
Merchants from Siena settled in the Val d’Orcia in the 14th and 15th centuries. They meticulously planned the area, aiming to create not only an efficient agricultural region but also a visually harmonious and pleasing landscape. Today, the valley remains a protected cultural and natural park.
Key Stops on the Via Francigena through the Val d’Orcia
If you begin your Via Francigena journey in Siena, you will traverse the heart of the Val d’Orcia for several days. The route passes through some of the most captivating medieval towns in all of Italy.
San Quirico d’Orcia
San Quirico d’Orcia has long been an important stop on the Via Francigena. Pilgrims traditionally entered the town via Porta Senese and departed through Porta Romana. Via Dante Alighieri splits the town almost perfectly.
While in San Quirico, enjoy the panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside from the town walls. Explore the Romanesque churches, including the Collegiata of Saint Quirico and Giulietta and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.
The Horti Leonini gardens are a highlight. They feature Renaissance geometrical gardening and offer a serene spot to escape the sun and enjoy peaceful moments. These gardens truly represent the heart of Val d’Orcia.
Bagno Vignoni
This extraordinary village is built around a large thermal pool rather than a traditional piazza, a peculiarity that has drawn travellers since the Middle Ages. The hot springs of Bagno Vignoni were frequented by pilgrims seeking relief from the physical demands of the journey, and they remain a highlight of any visit to the Val d’Orcia today. A soak in the nearby thermal baths after a long day of walking is one of the great pleasures of this route.
Radicofani
Perched dramatically above the valley at nearly 900 metres, Radicofani is impossible to miss or to forget. The medieval fortress that crowns the town was once a key control point along the Via Francigena, and on a clear day the views stretch across the entire Val d’Orcia and beyond. The ascent is demanding, but the reward is one of the finest vantage points in Tuscany.
Castiglione d’Orcia
A charming hilltop town with winding cobbled streets, Castiglione d’Orcia is dominated by the Rocca d’Orcia, a striking medieval castle. The town’s Piazza Il Vecchietta features a beautiful 15th-century well and offers lovely views over the valley. It is a quieter stop than San Quirico, but all the more atmospheric for it.
Best Time to Visit the Val d’Orcia
You can visit the Val d’Orcia year-round, but certain times of the year offer distinct advantages.
Spring (March to June): The most popular season for walking. Cooler temperatures, wildflowers in bloom, and the iconic green and gold Tuscan hills at their most vivid.
Summer (July and August): The heat can be intense, particularly on exposed stretches of the route. Early morning starts are essential. That said, the evenings are long and warm — perfect for lingering over a meal in one of the valley’s hilltop towns.
Autumn (September and October): Harvest season brings a vibrant, festive atmosphere to the valley. October is particularly rewarding for regional produce: mushrooms, chestnuts, truffles, and the new olive oil harvest. Temperatures are ideal for walking, and the light turns golden and soft.
Winter (November to February): Quieter and more contemplative. Some services along the route may have reduced hours, but the Val d’Orcia in winter — occasionally dusted with snow — has a stark, cinematic beauty all of its own.
Plan Your Via Francigena Journey through the Val d’Orcia
The Val d’Orcia is one of the most unforgettable stages of the entire Via Francigena pilgrimage route. Whether you are walking the full route from Lucca to Rome or joining for the Tuscany section only, this valley will stay with you long after the journey ends.
For more information about walking or cycling the Via Francigena in Tuscany, or to start planning your trip, contact our team. We can help you with accommodation, luggage transfers and itineraries to ensure a memorable journey through this remarkable region.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Val d’Orcia and the Via Francigena
What is the Val d’Orcia?
The Val d’Orcia is a valley in southern Tuscany, Italy, named after the Orcia River. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for its exceptional Renaissance landscape of rolling hills, cypress trees, medieval hilltop towns, and carefully designed agricultural land. It is also one of the most scenic sections of the Via Francigena pilgrimage route.
Is the Val d’Orcia on the Via Francigena?
Yes. The Via Francigena passes directly through the Val d’Orcia after leaving Siena, continuing south through towns such as San Quirico d’Orcia, Bagno Vignoni, and Radicofani before continuing towards Rome. It is one of the most memorable stretches of the full Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome.
What are the main stops in the Val d’Orcia on the Via Francigena?
The key stops are San Quirico d’Orcia, Bagno Vignoni, Castiglione d’Orcia, and Radicofani. Each offers a distinct character — from the thermal baths of Bagno Vignoni to the dramatic hilltop fortress of Radicofani.
How long does it take to walk through the Val d’Orcia?
The Val d’Orcia section of the Via Francigena typically takes 3 to 4 days on foot, covering roughly 60–70 km depending on your start and end points. Most walkers begin this section in Siena.
When is the best time to visit the Val d’Orcia?
Spring (March to June) and autumn (September to October) are the best times to visit. Spring brings cooler temperatures and wildflowers; autumn offers the harvest season, truffles, and golden light. Summer can be very hot, especially on exposed stretches of the route.
Can I cycle through the Val d’Orcia on the Via Francigena?
Yes. The Val d’Orcia is excellent for cycling. The route follows the famous strade bianche — white gravel roads through vineyards and cypress-lined lanes. See our Via Francigena cycling route from Lucca to Rome for full details.
Do I need a pilgrim passport (credenziale) to walk the Val d’Orcia?
It is strongly recommended. The credenziale is your pilgrim passport, stamped at each stop along the route. If you plan to complete the Via Francigena all the way to Rome, you will need it to collect the official Testimonium certificate upon arrival.
How do I plan a Via Francigena trip through the Val d’Orcia?
The easiest way is to contact our team at CaminoWays. We can help you design a tailor-made itinerary, including accommodation, luggage transfers, and route guidance, whether you plan to walk or cycle. Visit our Via Francigena guide to start planning.
Aoife’s Diary: The Via Francigena on foot
“You won’t know yourself once you start driving”,“Cycling will save you so much time.” These are the words of persuasion that I hear on a daily basis. Urging me to ditch my favoured mode of transport. They are words motivated by the capitalisation of time and centred on moving quicker. But the thing is, most of the time, all I want is to slow down. This is The Via Francigena on foot.
It’s for this reason that three days walking the Via Francigena in Tuscany from San Miniato to Siena with three of my wonderful colleagues was my absolute dream. There are few greater pleasures in life than fresh air, good food and great company. All that was missing was the option to throw my phone across the Atlantic Ocean and to never have to look at a screen again. Sadly this was not possible.
Footfall mimics the heart’s beat. It’s an innate pace that allows us to look outward at the world around us taking it in, one step at a time. It’s a divine slowness that allows the most precious of moments to unfold. Spilling packets of seeds into the hands of strangers and swapping sandwiches for stories of faraway lands. There is something about walking from one place to another that instils a sense of unity. People from all walks of life, regardless of age or occupation, gather together with one goal. When we walk there’s no demographic, no discrimination and no divide.
Your experience of the Via Francigena will be as different to mine as there are shades of green on Tuscan hills. Nonetheless, it is my experience and I’m going to share with you some of the moments that made it what it was.
Sounds
We shared a treasured moment on day three when we took shelter at the door of a monastery just as the rain started to fall and began tucking into our packed Focaccia. There’s no silence quite like the sound of four ravenous pilgrims taking their first bites of lunch. Later, that day we would be soothed by the sound of a number of tiny bells hung from the necks of sheep and ringing as they grazed. A fluffy orchestra to soundtrack our journey.
Strangers
There was our encounter with the warm-hearted German’s who insisted on treating us to lunch in San Gimignano and with whom we discussed a concept we dubbed, The Golden Triangle. The Triangle’s three points are: Money, Time and Energy and at various points in your life you have either two of the three. There was the kind stranger who gifted me their spare waterproof when I failed to pack one in haste and with whom I later swapped pens as a memento. And Alberto from Sardinia who insisted on taking us on a personalised tour of Siena.
Sights
And of course the Tuscan landscape, an infinity of soft rolling green hills that appear like sand dunes on the beach as if you could wipe them away easily with your hand and have them reappear the next day. The spectacular light display as the sun began to set at the end of each day, applauding us for all of our hard work. The medieval walled cities, with tall towers and beautiful brickwork where one can wander back in time and become inspired by Renaissance art and architecture.
Our sojourn on the The Via Francigena on foot is an experience that won’t easily be forgotten, if not for the fine food and stunning scenery but for the sheer pleasure of slowing down in a world that can’t stop moving.
Tuscany is world-renowned as being one of the most beautiful parts of Italy. The Via Francigena route, which passes through Tuscany, offers the perfect opportunity to experience the region by bike. Along the way, you will be immersed in a region of tranquillity and outstanding beauty, with the bonus of offering some of the world’s most incredible food and wine. So, why cycle the Via Francigena in Tuscany?
Due to its relative gentleness, excellent condition of the route, and relatively traffic-free nature, this part of the Via Francigena is ideal for families and inexperienced cyclists. If you feel that our cycling itinerary may be too demanding for you, why not try our walking itinerary instead? This will allow you to experience and enjoy the beauty and tranquility of Tuscany without the effort becoming too much.
1. The Iconic White Gravel Roads of Tuscany
For any cycle racing fans, much of the route may be familiar. The white gravel roads over which the Via Francigena passes constitute a significant feature of the Strade Bianche cycle race, which takes place every March. It’s hard to picture Tuscany without thinking of these roads rolling over low hills between wheat fields, vineyards, olive groves and the Poplar trees, which are synonymous with the region. These roads are as much a part of the landscape as they are a product of functionality. By cycling through Tuscany, you will become part of the landscape as you take in the region’s sights, sounds, and smells and feel the breeze on your face.
2. The Towns Along the Way
Most of the Via Francigena in Tuscany follows gravel roads, but some sections of single-track roads through woods and farms exist. These gravel roads have shallow volumes of traffic. Along the way, you will pass farmhouses and churches and pass through the stunning towns of San Gimignano, San Miniato, Monteriggioni and Siena. San Gimignano is a UNESCO World Heritage site and could be viewed as a medieval metropolis due to its many towers. Monteregionni is a work of architectural beauty that sits atop a small hill that can be seen for miles. Siena has to be one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. It is crammed with incredible architecture that surrounds the Piazza del Campo. The Piazza is where the famous Palio horse race occurs twice a year. It’s also a great place to sit with a coffee or a glass of wine and watch the world go by as you recover from your day cycle.
3. The Terrain
The route has flat sections but has many ups and downs. While there are some relatively steep climbs, they are generally quite short, and you will be rewarded with stunning views and beautiful medieval hilltop towns and villages. When descending steep rocky paths and gravel tracks, it’s best to sit back in the saddle so your bike isn’t front-heavy. You should also gently use both brakes together.
It is probably best to have some cycling experience but it is not essential. You should bring a waterproof jacket, sunglasses and padded cycling shorts, making the journey easier. If you don’t fancy wearing lycra, many types of casual shorts are now available with padding for cycling. You should also bring a puncture repair kit and/or spare tubes and tyre levers. In Italy, helmets are not required by law, but we always advise people to wear them. A mini-tool kit with Allen keys and some spanners is always a valuable thing to have when cycling. It is essential to be able to fix a puncture or other minor problems with your bike, as there will be points where you may not be near a bike shop. Having said that, most towns are well supplied with bike shops if you need to have something fixed or if you need to buy something.
4. The Food
From a food point of view, Tuscany is a cyclist’s dream. Plenty of delicious pasta, risotto, pizza, fresh fruit and vegetables will keep you fueled. Italy is also an excellent location for vegetarians, as a significant emphasis is placed on tasty meat-free dishes. The region is, of course, famous for its Chianti wine, which makes a beautiful accompaniment to a bowl of hearty Tuscan bean stew. San Miniato is world-renowned for its Black Truffles, and the extra virgin olive oil of the area is so good that when combined with fresh bread, it could be a meal in itself. You will see many world-class ice creams along the way, so why not treat yourself after a day in the saddle? And don’t forget, if you need a pick-up, Tuscany has some of the best coffee in the world.
Cycling the Via Francigena in Tuscany covers more ground than walking — but at a pace that still lets you absorb the landscape, stop in villages, and arrive with energy to explore. Daily distances average 20–45 km, which gives you time to cycle, rest, eat well, and do it all again the next day. It is a genuinely relaxed way to travel through one of Europe’s great landscapes.
Do I need to be an experienced cyclist to cycle the Via Francigena in Tuscany?
Not necessarily. The Tuscany section is one of the most accessible long-distance cycling routes in Italy. Some cycling experience is useful, particularly for the gravel descents, but the route is regularly completed by first-time long-distance cyclists. Read our amateur cyclist in Tuscany account for a first-hand perspective.
How far do you cycle each day on the Via Francigena in Tuscany?
Daily distances average between 20 and 45 km depending on the stage. The itinerary is designed to be manageable — you arrive in each town with time and energy to explore, eat well, and rest before the next day.
What type of bike do I need?
The route is predominantly on gravel roads, so a hybrid or gravel bike is ideal. Road bikes can be used but may struggle on the rougher sections. CaminoWays can arrange bike rental for the Tuscany section.
Is the Via Francigena in Tuscany suitable for families?
Yes — it is one of the most family-friendly cycling routes in Italy. The terrain is relatively gentle, traffic is minimal on the gravel roads and the daily distances can be adapted to suit younger or less experienced riders.
When is the best time to cycle the Via Francigena in Tuscany?
Spring and autumn are ideal, comfortable temperatures, fewer tourists and the landscape at its most photogenic. Autumn adds the grape and truffle harvests. Summer is possible but July and August can be very hot.
How do I book a cycling trip on the Via Francigena in Tuscany?
I could never be described as an avid cyclist or, any type of cyclist come to think of it. But this October I had the enviable honour of going on a cycling tour through Tuscany along the Via Francigena cycle from Lucca to Siena with two of my work colleagues.
As an amateur cyclist I needed to be organised. In preparation for my cycling adventures I came up with a comprehensively vague training plan. The checklist read:
Buy a Bike. Check.
Cycle Bike. Due to unforeseen difficulties with the tyres of said bike, I’m still waiting to check that one off the list.
Buy a helmet. Also unused and in very good condition if anyone is interested?!
Purchase Tesco’s Finest cycling gear. Check.
I was ready to take on the world or at least Tuscany…on my bike (rented of course).
First stop on the tour was Lucca, from there we cycled on to San Miniato, to Colle di Val d’Elsa and finally to Siena- many places and many kilometers of cycling to my initial dismay. We cycled down hills, we struggled up hills, we pushed, we lifted and we persevered each day to achieve what on my itinerary, seemed impossible. As we moved through the tour and clocked up the kilometers I found that my outlook became more positive and my mind more invigorated with each passing day, despite my road weary body! Who would have known that pushing yourself to the limit or what you thought was the limit, would be so adrenalin pumpingly addictive? So much so that as we cycled into Siena on our final day, I was filled with conflicting emotions, of equal parts relief and sadness that it was all over. I felt like an Olympian and that I had captured the unique experience that is to persevere and succeed.
There were many highlights to the trip, to name a few the beautiful scenery and breathtaking landscapes of Tuscany; However, for me the main ingredients that made the whole experience truly fulfilling even in the face of punctures, weather conditions that rivaled Ireland and days that drew in too soon were; good company provided by my work colleagues, good food provided by the many fine establishments we patroned and finally the unwavering hospitality and genuine helpfulness of the locals.
And finally to all sweet tooth enthusiasts, each stop offered a plethora of diabetic delights but the cherry on the top for me was a Gelateria I discovered offering ice creams and toppings that Willie Wonky would be proud of. I can tell you that eating my Gelato, swinging on the swings, that were hanging from the roof, lifted my cycling soul and I hope after sharing some of my experience with you that it might inspire you to tie your shoes, take a leap and get on your bike!
Many of you have asked about the specifics of food on the Via Francigena. In today’s blog we’re going to cover food in Italy, including meal times, courses, etiquette, and what to expect in general when dining on the Italian regions of the route.
Italy is considered by many as being home to some of the finest cuisines in the world. Food on the Via Francigena is all about wholesome, locally sourced, seasonal produce — and dining is all about taking your time and enjoying the company of friends and family. Here is a thing or two that you should know before tucking into a meal in the culinary queen of Europe.
1. Breakfast
It’s worth knowing that Italians don’t tend to eat a large amount in the morning. Breakfast is usually comprised of coffee along with something sweet such as cake or biscuits, in bigger towns you may find ham and cheese as part of the breakfast offering but let it be known that if it’s a full Irish breakfast you’re after, you won’t find it in Italy!
On the Via Francigena in Tuscany, breakfast at an agriturismo or guesthouse is often one of the highlights of the day — good coffee, fresh pastries, and occasionally local cured meats and cheeses laid out on a table in a farmhouse kitchen. Eat well before you set off. The morning stages cover most of the day’s distance, and there are very few cafes between villages.
2. Dinner
Dinner in Italy is generally made up of three courses. To start is antipasto, which is usually a meat or cheese board or a combination of both. Next comes primo, which translates as the first, this dish is usually pasta or risotto.
After that is the second dish or secondo, this will either be meat or fish and may also come with a side of salad. Mealtimes vary according to region and hotel.
Dinner usually takes place around 8 o’clock but restaurants in the more northern parts will be more open to having dinner earlier with dinner time in the more southern parts of Italy being later.
3. Coffee
Italians are serious about their coffee and one thing in particular: when the clock strikes noon no more coffee with milk is consumed. The morning coffee culture in Italy is also worth embracing. An espresso or cappuccino standing at a bar counter costs less than sitting at a table, and the ritual of stopping at a cafe before your first stage is one of the small daily pleasures that makes walking in Italy different from anywhere else.
Here at CaminoWays.com our very own reservations manager recoils in horror whenever somebody so much as utters the word cappuccino past 12pm. If you want to drink coffee like an Italian, it’s espresso only past midday.
4. Aperitivo
If you are lucky enough to find yourself in a bar in Italy somewhere around the hours of 6pm and 8pm you’re likely to be treated to an aperitivo, which is a free portion of food that comes with your drink, a lot like the culture of tapas in Spain.
Italians are not known for scrimping on portion sizes and aperitivos can often come in quite a generous portion so you may even need to rethink your dinner plans!
5. Dinner
Dinner in Italy is generally made up of three courses. To start is antipasto, which is usually a meat or cheese board, or a combination of both. Next comes primo — the first course — which is usually pasta or risotto. After that is secondo, the main course of meat or fish, which may also come with a side salad.
Mealtimes vary according to region and hotel. Dinner usually takes place around 8 o’clock, but restaurants in the more northern parts of Italy are more open to eating earlier. In the more southern parts, dinner time is later. Don’t try to eat at 6pm — most kitchens simply won’t be open.
In Tuscany, the quality of dinner after a long day’s walking is one of the great pleasures of the route. The food is simple, seasonal, and consistently excellent: pici pasta with wild boar, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina, Chianti.
CaminoWays packages include breakfast as standard, but dinner can be added to your booking — or you can explore the restaurants in each town independently. For a full guide to what to order, read our perfect Italian dinner in Tuscany.
If you’re planning a walking holiday in Tuscany on the Via Francigena or Cammino di Francesco, don’t miss the chance to discover authentic Italian food, one of the richest Mediterranean food cultures. Let us whet your appetite with this blog post before you leave for the Italian peninsula. Perfect Italian dinner on the Via Francigena
We suggest you begin your evening in Tuscany with an aperitivo. The Italian word aperitivo is usually translated as “Happy Hour” but is not the same thing. An aperitivo is just a pre-dinner drink, meant to open the palate. Aperitivo drinks can be alcoholic or non-alcoholic, “virgin” drinks. Non-alcoholic or “virgin” drinks can range from a soft drink to delicious fruit juice cocktails or a non-alcoholic bitter, like Italian Sanbitter, Crodino or Chinotto.
For alcoholic drinks we suggest wine, usually white, but don’t dismiss a good red wine a priori. Prosecco is our favourite choice: sparkling white wine perfect to sweeten your palate while tasting some exquisite appetizers. Spumante, sweet or dry sparkling white wine, is also a good choice. Fragolino or Brachetto are two of the sweetest choices if you go for red wine.
What is offered as appetizers, really depends on the bar. A few olives and potato chips are the classic (poorest) offering. We suggest you ask for something tastier and Italian, like some bread or breadsticks, grissini in Italian, accompanied by some fresh and fabulous Parma ham (prosciutto di Parma) or the famous lardo di Colonnata produced in Carrara, Tuscany. Sometimes you can find Italian cheese such as fresh Mozzarella as an appetizer.
Dinner
Take your time to enjoy your aperitivo and then move serenely to a good restaurant in town but make sure they have bistecca alla fiorentina in the Menu. Bistecca alla fiorentina, or “beefsteak Florentine style”, is a T-bone traditionally sourced from either the Chianina or Maremmana breeds of cattle. It’s one of our favourite Tuscan dishes and we heartily recommend it to you!
Begin your dinner with a fresh salad dressed with Italian olive oil and balsamic vinegar from Modena.
The highlight of the evening is now finally arrived.
The bistecca alla fiorentina is 2 or 3 fingers thick and the correct weight for 2 people varies between 900 and 1250 grams. The T-bone divides the filet part of the steak from the sirloin. The steak is grilled over a wood or charcoal fire, seasoned with salt and sometimes with black pepper. A generous amount of olive oil is applied immediately after the meat is taken off the heat. The secret is in the speed of the cooking method and the result is that the meat is roasted golden brown on the outside and soft and pulpy in the inside. It is traditionally served very rare, sometimes garnished with lemon wedges and accompanied by Tuscan beans or baked potatoes as a side dish. Thickly cut and very large steaks are often shared between two or more people. Perfect Italian dinner on the Via Francigena
Wine
The best Tuscan red wine to accompany your fabulous dish is absolutely a Chianti.
Other good choices of well-known regional wines could be Monteregio di Massa Marittima Riserva Doc,Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Morellino di Scansano, Parrina, Sassicaia and Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Desserts
If you still have a little space for dessert, try some delicious tiramisu or panna cotta, the best Italian traditional desserts. Something also traditional but much lighter could be just some Cantuccini, known in English as “biscotti”, which in Italian is just the general word for biscuits. Try them with an Espresso or a Macchiato. Keep in mind that Italy is the country of coffee par excellence, so enjoy it!
Your dinner is now finished, but if you are very greedy or you didn’t have dessert at the restaurant, plan a stop in an open gelateria for a delicious handmade Italian gelato to eat while you enjoy a stroll around town. Perfect Italian dinner on the Via Francigena
Planning a walking holiday on the Via Francigena as a vegetarian or vegan? Tuscany’s seasonal produce makes it one of the best places in the world to eat well without meat. Our guide to vegetarians on the Via Francigena has everything you need to know.
To learn more about Camino food and food on the Via Francigena, please visit our blog.
Our favourite food experiences in Tuscany
In 2015, three members of the CaminoWays.com team embarked on a cycling journey from Lucca to Siena along one of the most popular routes of the Via Francigena. Claire, Caroline, and I started our adventure in the medieval city of Lucca and finished in Rome, Italy’s capital. Over three days, we cycled through the picturesque Tuscan hills, enjoyed delightful food experiences in Tuscany, visited the historic town of San Gimignano, and met some of the region’s friendliest locals.
In this blog post, I’ll focus on our culinary experiences in Tuscany. From quaint villages to bustling cities and ancient Roman ruins, we were treated to delightful Italian cuisine throughout. The scents of freshly baked pastries, homemade pesto, olive groves, and ripe fruit will forever remind me of this journey.
We started our trip in Lucca, a charming walled city. Locals embrace outdoor dining with cafes and restaurants in open squares. The tables are beautifully set and adorned with canopies and flower baskets. It was the perfect place for our first fresh pasta dish—delicious!
Tuscan Countryside Delights
As we cycled out of Lucca, the Tuscan countryside greeted us with olive groves, vineyards, orange trees, and lemon bushes. The harvest season was in full swing, making it a foodie’s paradise. The vibrant landscape inspired our inner chefs.
Lunch at La Gola di Bacco
On our way to San Miniato, we found La Gola di Bacco, a quirky restaurant. The owner had limited English but used lively gestures to communicate. The chef playfully acted out each dish on our large meat platter, making it a memorable food charade.
Dinner in San Miniato
In San Miniato, we dined at a pizzeria arranged by our hotel. We were tired and hungry, and the waitress’s meal selections were perfect. We sampled regional black truffles, enjoyed a huge wood-fired pizza, and enjoyed delicious desserts.
Colle di Val d’Elsa Experience
At Colle di Val d’Elsa, our meal felt like an Italian theatre show. The passionate Tuscan atmosphere was palpable. I had an amazing mussel soup with giant mussels and tomato sauce. The bread served with the meal was much appreciated after a long ride.
Celebration Dinner in Siena
In Siena, we celebrated with dinner at Salefino. The service, food, and atmosphere were fantastic. We were greeted with limoncello and a warm broccoli soup. The enthusiastic waitress translated the menu, enhancing our dining experience. We savoured every moment, including delightful desserts.
Dining Etiquette Tips
Listen to the owner’s recommendations.
Order vegetables and side dishes separately.
Be mindful of pasta’s filling nature before ordering more.
If you enjoyed this article, visit our Camino blog for more Camino food inspiration.
Claire’s top things to do in Tuscany
Tuscany is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe and after having spent a few days cycling in the heart of its countryside from Lucca to Siena, it’s easy to see why. Here are the highlights from my Via Francigena cycling trip in Tuscany.
Beautiful scenery
The towns and villages along the way are seriously impressive, most of them perched on hilltops with spectacular views on the surrounding countryside. I had seen plenty of pictures of the region but nothing can compare to the real thing. Our cycle took us through the rolling countryside from Lucca to Siena crossing olive-groves, vineyards and woodlands. Be sure to take your camera with you each day when you are walking or cycling as they views are amazing.
The Via Francigena trail is mostly off road and is ideal for anyone looking for a quiet, picturesque route. Bear in mind that if you choose to cycle, the route is quite challenging as the area is very hilly and you should be prepared to push the bike for certain stages.
San Gimignano
The beautiful medieval town was one of my favourite stops along the route. A Unesco World Heritage site, the walled town is well-known for its 14 towers which are visible for miles around in the surrounding countryside. It is believed that this town was the inspiration for Shakespeares’s Romeo and Juliet.
The locals
My cycling companions and I were particularly impressed with the friendliness of the people we met along the way, and in particular in the smaller villages and hamlets along the route. The locals always had a big smile for us when they saw us passing through and some kind words to wish us luck on our journey. Unfortunately my Italian leaves a lot to be desired but I’m determined that I’ll be able to hold more of a conversation the next time I visit this place.
Food and wine
I could not write a blog about my favourite aspects of the trip without mentioning the amazing food and wine we sampled along the way. At every turn we were spoiled for choice with cold meats, breads, pastas, olives, ice-creams, pizzas etc. We didn’t even feel one bit guilty tucking into all these delicious dishes as we felt we had earned it after all the cycling!
Simple, fresh ingredients which are well-prepared are the essence of Tuscan cooking and there’s no doubt that this area is a food-lovers paradise. If you happen to be in the area during the autumn, this is the perfect time to sample (or even hunt) one of the region’s best known delicacies, the truffle. Although truffles can be found all year round, the end of September signals the arrival of the Tartufo Bianco, the most famous white truffle, and there are numerous festivals to celebrate it’s arrival. On our trip, we sampled some of the black variety sliced finely and served over fresh ravioli – buonissimo!
Siena
Our trip finished in Siena and what an amazing place to spend a last night in Tuscany! The small pedestrian streets are lined with beautiful shops and restaurants and the city has a young and bustling vibe as it’s one of the main University cities in the area. At every corner you turn there are fine examples of Gothic architecture, but none more impressive than the city cathedral, the Duomo. This cathedral, which dates back to the 13th century, is embellished with stripes of black and white marble and is as impressive inside as it is outside.
The central square, Piazza del Campo, is lined with some lovely restaurants and bars and is a great spot to watch the world go by. This sloping piazza is particularly famous for its twice yearly horse race, the Palio, held on July 2nd and August 16th. One side of the Piazza is dominated by the town hall and its bell tower which is the second highest in Italy. If you’re feeling particularly energetic, you can climb he 505 steps to the top and enjoy some breath-taking view of the city. Before leaving Siena, be sure to allow some time to browse the many artisan food shops the city has to offer and sample some of the local delicacies. Siena is well-known for its Panforte, a traditional Italian dessert containing fruit, nuts, honey and spices and it’s best served with coffee or dessert wine.
If you would like further information on the Via Francigena or to book your next walking or cycling tour please contact our Travel Specialists.
As the final destination of the Via Francigena, Rome welcomes pilgrims with its rich history, breathtaking architecture, and vibrant atmosphere. While one day isn’t enough to uncover all its wonders, 24 hours is plenty of time to soak in its charm. If you’re ready to experience a taste of la dolce vita, here’s how to make the most of a day in the Eternal City.
Kick off your Roman adventure with a visit to the open-air market at Campo de’ Fiori. This vibrant morning market is the perfect place to grab fresh fruit to fuel your day. You can also find unique souvenirs, making it a great spot to pick up gifts for loved ones.
10 am: Explore Piazza Navona
After the market, walk to Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most beautiful squares. The square is famous for its stunning fountains and lively atmosphere. Relax by the Fountain of the Four Rivers, a masterpiece by the renowned sculptor Bernini, and enjoy some people-watching before your next adventure.
Campo de’ Fiori
11 am: Discover Vatican City
A 20-minute walk will take you to Vatican City, the world’s smallest sovereign state. With a population of just under 1,000 people, this city-state is home to some of the most significant cultural and religious sites in the world. Must-see sights include St. Peter’s Basilica, St. Peter’s Square, and the breathtaking Sistine Chapel. Keep in mind that summer months attract large crowds, so plan accordingly.
Vatican City
2 pm: Time for Lunch
After a morning filled with art and history, it’s time for a well-deserved lunch. Rome is full of delightful trattorias and restaurants where you can indulge in authentic Italian cuisine. Whether you choose pasta, pizza, or a light salad, you’ll be ready for the next leg of your Roman adventure. Buon appetito!
3 pm: Explore the Trastevere Neighbourhood
For a quieter, more local experience, head to the Trastevere neighbourhood. This charming district offers a more relaxed vibe, making it ideal for a peaceful afternoon. Don’t miss the Basilica di Santa Maria, where the golden mosaics are a sight. Trastevere is perfect for wandering and taking in the atmosphere.
5 pm: Visit the Colosseum
No trip to Rome would be complete without visiting the iconic Colosseum. This ancient amphitheatre, built over 2,000 years ago, was once the site of gladiatorial combats and grand entertainment events. It’s one of the most recognisable landmarks in the world and a must-see for anyone visiting Rome.
Colosseum
7 pm: Climb Palatine Hill
Climb Palatine Hill for breathtaking views of ancient Rome. It’s one of the city’s most ancient parts and offers panoramic views of the Roman Forum and Circus Maximus. As the sun sets, the golden light on the ruins creates a magical atmosphere.
8 pm: Enjoy a Late Dinner
After a day of sightseeing, treat yourself to a delicious Roman dinner. Near Palatine Hill, Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 is a fantastic option, offering some of the tastiest pasta in the city. For a special experience, reserve an outdoor table under the vines. After dinner, take a short stroll to Gelateria La Dolce Vita for some delightful Italian gelato.
10 pm: End the Day at the Trevi Fountain
As night falls, make your way to the famous Trevi Fountain. This is the perfect time to visit, as the crowds have thinned, and the romantic lighting adds to the fountain’s beauty. Toss a coin into the fountain to ensure your return to Rome someday.
Trevi Fountain
Final Thoughts
Though 24 hours may not be enough to see everything in Rome, it’s enough to experience some of the city’s best spots. There’s always something new to explore in the Eternal City, so plan your next visit soon.
As you near the end of your journey into Unmissable Rome, the Via Francigena leads you to Monte Mario. This high vantage point offers stunning panoramic views of the capital. From here, Rome’s beauty unfolds before you, creating a memorable entry into the city. Descending from Monte Mario, you’ll follow the Via Triumphale, an ancient Roman road, as you approach the Vatican. It’s a grand introduction to the city’s heart and its historical significance.
Monte Mario
Entering St. Peter’s Square
Upon arriving at St. Peter’s Square around midday, the transition from the peaceful solitude of your previous days to the bustling energy of Unmissable Rome can be overwhelming. The immense scale of the square, paired with its grandeur, makes it one of the most iconic spots in the world. If you’re lucky, you might arrive just before an audience with the Pope, which takes place in this very square. On such occasions, part of the square is set up for seating, reducing its capacity by about 60% but adding a unique vibrancy to the scene.
St. Peter’s Square, Vatican
Castel Sant’Angelo: A Step Back in Time
Just a short walk from St. Peter’s Square, you’ll find the imposing Castel Sant’Angelo. Originally built as a cylindrical mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian in 130 AD, it was later transformed into a fortress for the Pope during unrest in the 14th century. This historic building is well worth a visit. The tour takes you through the castle’s ancient interior, where you can admire its preserved red brick walls, mosaic floors, and the wide corridors once used for horse-drawn carts. It’s a vivid snapshot of Roman history, offering a glimpse into the city’s ancient and papal past.
Castel Sant’Angelo, Rome
Trastevere at Night: Rome’s Lively Heart
No visit to Unmissable Rome is complete without experiencing the charm of the Trastevere district, especially in the evening. If you’re looking for excellent food, vibrant energy, and a truly Roman atmosphere, Trastevere is the place to be. The neighbourhood is a maze of cobbled streets, ancient courtyards, and bustling piazzas. As you wander through this lively district, you’ll come across open-air restaurants offering authentic Italian cuisine, street performers adding rhythm to the night, and market stalls selling beautiful leather goods and silk scarves. Exploring the local churches in Trastevere is also a highlight; while some may be lesser-known, they are all exquisite in their own right.
Trastevere at Night, Rome
The Colosseum: A Roman Icon
One of Rome’s most famous landmarks, the Colosseum, is a must-see. It’s best to arrive early in the morning to avoid the heavy crowds, as it is one of the most visited attractions in Unmissable Rome after the Vatican. Various local tour providers offer guided visits to the Colosseum, with different options depending on what you want to see. When choosing a tour, it’s worth asking a few key questions:
How many people are in each group? Smaller groups usually mean a more intimate experience and the ability to cover more ground.
What areas of the Colosseum are included in the tour? Some tours cover the general areas, while others include the basement, upper floors, and the Roman Forum.
How long does the tour last? Allocate enough time to make the most of your visit.
What is the price? Tours vary in price based on the length and content.
Colosseum
A comprehensive tour often covers the ground floor, upper levels, the Roman Forum, and the surrounding ancient city if you’re interested in exploring the basement, which offers a fascinating look at where gladiators and animals were kept before entering the arena, book in advance, as these tours are particularly popular.
Discovering the Roman Forum and Ancient City
The tour of the Roman Forum was about an hour long and covered highlights such as the Via Sacra, the Imperial Palace, the House and Temple of the Vestals, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Senate. Walking through these historical landmarks gives you a sense of ancient Rome’s immense power and grandeur. Each corner of the Forum seems to hold a story, and the ruins tell tales of the city’s once-mighty empire.
Roman Forum
After your guided tour, it’s well worth exploring Unmissable Rome’s ancient city at your own pace. The area is brimming with history, and you’ll be surrounded by fascinating remnants of Rome’s glorious past. Every structure you encounter seems to unfold more layers of the city’s incredible story, leaving you with a deep appreciation for its rich cultural heritage.
Additional Recommendations for Your Rome Visit
When planning your time in Unmissable Rome, consider adding these additional experiences to your itinerary:
The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel: If you haven’t explored these iconic sites yet, it’s worth dedicating a morning to immerse yourself in their world-renowned art and history.
Piazza Navona: Known for its beautiful fountains and lively atmosphere, this is a lovely spot to stop for a coffee and watch the world go by.
Pantheon: One of Rome’s best-preserved ancient buildings, the Pantheon is an architectural marvel.
Tiber River Walks: A peaceful stroll along the Tiber River offers picturesque views of the city and its bridges.
Gelato: Indulge some authentic Italian gelato at one of the many gelaterias scattered throughout the city.
Exploring Unmissable Rome offers a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and tastes. Every corner reveals something new, making it a city you could visit again and again and still discover something different.
Walking the Via Francigena in Tuscany offers many highlights, but a day in Siena is a true treasure. During an October trip with three colleagues, we chose to spend an extra day exploring this historic hilltop city—a decision I’d happily make again. Here’s how to make the most of 24 hours in Siena.
For a broader overview of everything the city offers, see our top things to do in Siena guide. If you’re visiting in July or August, read our Palio di Siena guide — the race changes everything about how to plan your time in the city.
Siena Cathedral is a striking example of Siena’s diverse architecture. The building blends Gothic and Romanesque styles with remarkable harmony.
A Project Spanning Centuries
Construction began in the 13th century under Gothic master Nicola Pisano. His son, Giovanni, designed the lower part of the façade. The upper façade was added in the 14th century. Work halted during the Black Death, which devastated Siena’s population. It remained unfinished until the 19th century, when golden mosaics were added during restoration.
Artworks Inside the Cathedral
Inside, admire works by Pisano, Donatello, and Michelangelo. Don’t miss the frescoes by Pinturicchio, which add colour and depth to this spiritual landmark.
Siena Cathedral, Via Francigena
Climb the Torre del Mangia
A Tower to Rival the Duomo
The Torre del Mangia, built in the 14th century, stands as tall as the Duomo. This design symbolised equal power between church and state.
A Name with a Story
Its name means “Tower of the Eater”, a nod to its first guardian. Known for his love of food, he was nicknamed mangiaguadagni—someone who eats their earnings. We can’t blame him. If we lived in Siena, we might do the same!
Panoramic Views and Global Influence
Climb the tower’s 400 steps to enjoy sweeping views of Siena and the surrounding Tuscan hills. The Torre has inspired architectural designs worldwide, including in Birmingham and Connecticut.
Torre del Mangia, Siena
Enjoy Traditional Tuscan Peasant Food
A Cuisine of Simplicity and Flavour
Tuscan food embraces the concept of cucina povera—simple dishes made with humble ingredients. The results are both wholesome and delicious.
Dishes to Try
Taste local favourites such as:
Ribollita – a hearty vegetable and bread soup
Pappa al Pomodoro – a tomato and bread dish full of flavour
Bruschetta – topped with olive oil, tomatoes, and herbs
Tuscan food reflects the region’s seasonal produce and creative cooking.
Bruschetta
Try Truffle Hunting in the Tuscan Countryside
A Time-Honoured Tradition
Truffle hunting is a centuries-old practice in Tuscany. Traditionally done with pigs, it now uses trained dogs to locate this prized fungus.
San Miniato and the White Truffle
The town of San Miniato is famous for the white truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico). The best time to hunt or sample it is in autumn.
A Luxurious Treat
Truffles feature in many local dishes:
Tagliatelle with truffle
Ravioli with truffle filling
Pizza topped with truffle oil
Each dish showcases the earthy richness that makes truffles so unique.
San Miniato, Via Francigena
And Finally… Embrace La Dolce Vita
Take time to slow down. Sip an espresso in Piazza del Campo, watch the locals pass by, or simply enjoy the view from a quiet terrace. Siena invites you to pause and savour each moment.
Thinking of Spending an Extra Day in Siena?
Most pilgrims walking the Via Francigena from Lucca to Siena arrive tired and elated after seven days on the road. Our advice: book an extra night. One day is enough to see the highlights, but two days lets you actually feel the city rather than just pass through it. If you’re continuing south towards Rome, Siena also makes a natural pause point before the next stage begins.
Siena, a gem in the heart of Tuscany, is one of the most captivating stops along the Via Francigena. This UNESCO World Heritage city is a testament to Gothic architecture, blending harmoniously with its stunning Tuscan surroundings. As you walk the Via Francigena, a pilgrimage route that takes you through some of Italy’s most historic landscapes, Siena offers an enchanting break. With its rich history, awe-inspiring monuments, and vibrant atmosphere, it’s no wonder that Siena is one of the most visited destinations in Italy.
If you are walking the Via Francigena through Tuscany and arriving in Siena at the end of your walk, we strongly recommend spending an extra night — or two — before continuing south or heading home. Siena rewards time. Here are the top things to see and do to make the most of your visit.
Siena’s most iconic and famous location is Piazza del Campo, renowned globally for hosting the thrilling Palio horse race each summer. This historic event, which dates back over 700 years, transforms the square into a unique racecourse. The square’s curved shape makes it a perfect stage for the event, attracting visitors from all over the world. The square even appeared in the James Bond film Quantum of Solace.
Piazza del Campo
Beyond the Palio, Piazza del Campo is an architectural marvel. It is home to the Palazzo Pubblico, Siena’s town hall, and the striking Torre del Mangia, an 88-metre tower that has stood tall since the 14th century. If you’re up for it, climbing the tower (entry fee approximately €8) will reward you with breathtaking panoramic views of the entire city and its picturesque surroundings.
A visit to the Museo Civico in Piazza del Campo is a must for art lovers. This museum houses important works from the renowned Sienese School of Art and offers a deeper understanding of Siena’s cultural and artistic history.
Siena Duomo: A Masterpiece of Gothic Architecture
No trip to Siena is complete without visiting the stunning Siena Cathedral (Duomo), a masterpiece of Tuscan Romanesque architecture. Dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, the cathedral’s striking black and white marble exterior, adorned with intricate carvings and ornate details, makes it one of the most beautiful in Italy.
Inside, you’ll find a true feast for the eyes. One of the highlights is the 14th-century marble mosaic floor, a work of art that depicts biblical stories in incredible detail. Each step inside the cathedral reveals another artistic treasure, from sculptures by Michelangelo to frescoes by Pinturicchio.
Siena Cathedral
Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala: A Pilgrim’s Sanctuary
Just across from the Duomo lies Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala, one of Europe’s first hospitals specifically built to care for pilgrims. Situated along the Via Francigena, this historic hospital provided shelter and care to travellers to Rome. Today, it serves as a museum, showcasing Siena’s role in medieval pilgrimage routes and offering fascinating insights into the city’s past.
Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala
Immerse Yourself in Siena’s Streets
Beyond the grandeur of its famous landmarks, Siena’s charm is also found in its more minor details. Take time to wander through the narrow back streets of the city’s historic centre. Each turn presents an opportunity to discover the quiet beauty of this medieval city. The streets are filled with artisan shops, cafes, and stunning architecture, all reflecting the city’s rich history and culture.
After a day of exploration, there’s no better way to relax than with a creamy gelato or a cup of coffee accompanied by a slice of Tuscan almond cake. Find a spot in the sunshine, sit back, and enjoy the lively atmosphere as life unfolds around you.
Which Via Francigena Route to Choose?
The section between Lucca and Siena is particularly special if you’re walking the Via Francigena in Tuscany. This route allows you to experience the rolling hills of Tuscany, medieval villages, and, of course, the remarkable city of Siena as a highlight of your journey. Many travellers end their walk in Siena, savouring its beauty before continuing.
Festivals in Siena: When to Visit
Siena is a city of celebrations, with festivals occurring throughout the year. Timing your visit to coincide with one of these events will enhance your experience:
The Palio di Siena takes place twice annually, on 2 July and 16 August. For everything you need to know about the race, the traditions, how to get a spot, and how to plan around it, read our full Palio di Siena guide.
Siena Jazz Festival: From June to August, Siena hosts a series of open-air jazz concerts. The city’s medieval backdrop creates a magical setting. Music enthusiasts will love the blend of world-class jazz and the historic atmosphere of the old town.
San Giuseppe Festival and Fair: This festival, which takes place on March 19th (St Joseph’s Day), offers a chance to experience local traditions and enjoy Siena’s vibrant community spirit.
No matter when you choose to visit, Siena’s timeless beauty will leave a lasting impression.
The Palio di Siena
End Your Journey on a Sweet Note
As you wrap up your exploration of Siena, treat yourself to one of Tuscany’s favourite desserts. Enjoy a rich, creamy gelato or a delicate almond cake to end your day perfectly. A refreshing cup of coffee also provides a delightful finish after a day of exploring. Take a moment to reflect on the history and beauty of this marvellous city while indulging in a well-deserved treat.
With its deep historical roots and undeniable charm, Siena is a highlight of any journey along the Via Francigena. Whether captivated by the stunning Gothic architecture, lively festivals, or exploring centuries-old streets, this city enchants you. So, take the time to explore Siena fully and let its beauty enhance your Via Francigena experience.
The Via Francigena trail might not be as well known as the Camino de Santiago, but it has been a path taken by pilgrims across Europe for centuries. We explain the Via Francigena, the Camino to Rome, in 15 exciting and simple facts:
15 Via Francigena Facts
Via Francigena
Distance and Route
Trail Length The Via Francigena covers 1,900 km from Canterbury to Rome. However, many other more popular and shorter routes, such as Lucca to Rome, the Tuscany route from Lucca to Siena, and the final 100km from Viterbo to Rome, can be walked.
Historical Path It is one of the many routes European pilgrims took on their way to Rome since the Middle Ages.
Countries Traversed The Via Francigena crosses four European countries: the UK, France, Switzerland, and Italy. It features areas of spectacular beauty and historic interest.
Historical Significance
Sigeric the Serious Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, walked the route to Rome and recorded his travels in a journal in the 10th century. This can be considered the first-ever Via Francigena ‘guidebook,’ and the route today follows Sigeric’s trail as much as possible.
Route Variations Slightly different variations have emerged in sections of the Via Francigena route to avoid bigger roads or areas unsuitable for walking or cycling. Some guidebooks indicate both itineraries, so walkers and cyclists can choose which one to follow.
Pronunciation and Recognition
Pronunciation It is pronounced Francheegena (with the accent on the ‘ee’), but to make it easier, you can also call it the Camino to Rome.
Cultural Itinerary The Via Francigena route has been a Council of Europe European Cultural Itinerary since 1994 and a Major Cultural Route since 2004.
Pilgrimage and Participation
Pilgrim Certificate Once in Rome, you can request your Testimonium, a certificate of pilgrimage to Rome
Participation Numbers Numbers on the Via Francigena have grown steadily in recent years, with around 2,000 to 3,000 walkers and cyclists completing sections of the Italian route annually. This compares to over 400,000 pilgrims who received the Compostela in Santiago de Compostela in recent years.
Via Francigena Sign
Way Markings
Development Stage The Via Francigena’s way markings are still in the development stage. They will vary greatly depending on the countries and regions. It is important to have a good guidebook or route notes and maps with you.
Marking Types Markings are not as common or uniform as those on the Camino. Markings can be the Francigena pilgrim, the red and white stripes (GR marking), or combined.
Frequent Markings in Italy Way-marks become more frequent in Italy, particularly as you get closer to Rome.
Accommodation and Travel Time
Accommodation Availability Accommodation, particularly in rural areas, can be limited. However, we have connections with a wide variety of accommodation types along the route.
Travel Time It will take approximately three months to walk the Via Francigena, the Camino to Rome, from Canterbury to Rome, and a month and a half to cycle the route. However, you can do it in shorter sections with Italy, like the Full Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome.
Popular Sections Many Francigena pilgrims choose to do separate sections at a time (one to two weeks, for instance). Some of the most popular sections are the Via Francigena across the Alps, walking to St Bernard’s Pass, the section from Lucca to Siena walking in Tuscany, and the last stretch walking into Rome.
A walker on the Via Francigena
We hope that you enjoyed these 15 Via Francigena facts. For more information about walking or cycling the Via Francigena or to have an itinerary tailored to you, please contact us. For the full picture of what makes this route so special, read 6 things that make the Via Francigena special. Plan your trip effortlessly with our Camino Planner.
The history of the Via Francigena pilgrim route dates back to the Middle Ages. The full Via Francigena pilgrimage is from Canterbury to Rome, covering 1,700 km, passing through France and Switzerland along the way.
Sigeric the Serious: The Route is Documented (990 AD)
The pilgrimage from northern Europe to Rome was first illustrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in 990 AD. Archbishop Sigeric is also known as Sigeric the Serious — he travelled to Rome to be ordained by Pope John XV. When he returned home he wrote a travel diary, detailing his experiences along the walking route and noting 80 distinct stopping places for pilgrims who choose to embark on the journey. The diary of Sigeric is still considered the most authoritative source for the direction of the route. It is often called “the Via Francigena according to Sigeric” to define it as a more philological path.
Rome, Santiago, Jerusalem
Travelling this passage dates back to the seventh century when the Lombards vied for more territory in Italy.
Towards the end of the first millennium, Rome was considered holy ground and the importance of sites like Santiago de Compostela, the Via Francigena and Jerusalem increased dramatically. The activity of pilgrimage journeys grew in profile. Often pilgrims would walk the way to Rome and continue towards the port of Puglia where they would make the journey for Jerusalem. Instead of heading south, Italian pilgrims would follow the road to Rome and upwards to Santiago. Pilgrims would get blessed by a local priest and prepare a full will before leaving on the long-distance journey. The Via Francigena was increasingly used as an important European trade route. The increasing use of the Via Francigena as a trade route led to the unprecedented development of many towns along the way. The way became an essential route to take the goods from the east — silk, spices — to the markets of northern Europe and trade them.
The towns along the route grew dramatically during this period. Lucca became a major centre of silk weaving and banking. Siena developed into one of Europe’s most important cities. Viterbo became wealthy enough to serve as the papal residence for much of the 13th century. San Gimignano’s famous towers were built by merchant families who had grown rich on the trade passing through their town.
Decline: The 13th Century Onwards
In the 13th century trade grew to such an extent that several alternative routes to the Via Francigena were developed, and it therefore lost its unique character and broke into numerous different routes linking the north and Rome. Also, the walking paths and trails often linked monasteries instead of major cities and by the 16th century, there were more direct routes.
Revival: The 20th Century to Today
The number of modern pilgrims on the Via Francigena is very small compared to medieval times, the heyday of long-distance pilgrimage in Europe. However, the Via Francigena has been slowly rediscovered in recent years, particularly since the 1990s. The route received the title of European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe in 1994, meaning more resources and funds were allocated to maintain, mark and promote the trail, particularly by the Italian Government. In 2007 a 0km milestone was laid outside Canterbury Cathedral, the official starting point of the Via Francigena.
Like the Camino de Santiago, the Via Francigena is today more than just a pilgrimage: it is an adventure that gives walkers and cyclists a precious opportunity to discover Europe and the cultures along the route at a different pace.
Travelling this passage dates back to the 7th century. As a documented pilgrimage route it dates to 990 AD when Sigeric the Serious recorded his journey. As a modern long-distance walking trail it was formally revived in the 1990s.
Who was Sigeric the Serious?
Sigeric was Archbishop of Canterbury who travelled to Rome in 990 AD to be ordained by Pope John XV. His travel diary records 79 stages from Rome to Canterbury and forms the basis of the Via Francigena as it is walked today.
Why did the Via Francigena decline?
In the 13th century trade grew and alternative routes developed, breaking the single corridor into multiple competing paths. By the 16th century more direct roads existed and the route lost its unified character.
When was the Via Francigena revived?
The route was designated a European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe in 1994. In 2007 a 0km milestone was placed at Canterbury Cathedral marking the official start of the route.
How does the Via Francigena compare to the Camino de Santiago?
Both developed during the same period of medieval pilgrimage culture. The Camino de Santiago was designated a European Cultural Route in 1987, seven years before the Via Francigena in 1994. The Camino today attracts several hundred thousand pilgrims annually compared to around 2,000 to 3,000 on the Italian sections of the Via Francigena.
Credenziali and Testimonium, the Via Francigena’s Pilgrim Passport and Certificate
The Testimonium Peregrinationis ad Limina Petri
The Testimonium — full name Testimonium Peregrinationis ad Limina Petri, is the official pilgrim certificate of the Via Francigena, awarded in Rome to pilgrims who have walked at least the last 100 km of the route on foot. It is the Via Francigena equivalent of the Compostela on the Camino de Santiago, the formal recognition that you have completed your pilgrimage to Rome.
To request your Testimonium, remember to take your ‘credenziali‘ or pilgrim passport and stamp it along the way.
How to get the Testimonium, Via Francigena Pilgrim Certificate
If you do the Via Francigena for Religious reasons:
You can get the Testimonium at Saint Peter’s Basilica. Here’s how:
Head to the reception desk at the Basilica and present your pilgrim credential to the staff there. To find the reception area for pilgrims, look for a special path known as the “Prayer Route” or “Percorso Preghiera.” This is marked by yellow signs and is located on the right side of the Basilica.
Once you pass the security checks carried out by the Italian Police, follow the yellow signs to reach the reception area. This will be situated within the Basilica’s cloakroom, just beyond the stained glass window.
In addition to picking up your Testimonium at the reception, you can also complete a survey about your pilgrimage journey for data collection. Other amenities include luggage storage, restroom facilities, and entry to Saint Peter’s Basilica and the Sacred Vatican Grottoes. These are open from 9:00 a.m. until 5:45 p.m.
The reception desk is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. If there’s a Papal Audience in the Square on a Wednesday, the timings are from 1:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Moreover, there’s a daily Pilgrim’s Mass at the Altar of the Cathedral at 6:00 p.m.
For further details or to make reservations, you can get in touch with the relevant office through the following means:
I hope this clarifies how to get the Testimonium at Saint Peter’s Basilica. Safe travels on your journey!
Alternatively…
You can also request the Testimonium from the San Lorenzo Pilgrims Office Ad Limina Petri (Via Pfeiffer 24) in Rome. The centre is open Monday to Friday from 11 am to 5 pm (Summer time only).
If you do it for Cultural and Religious reasons
You can request your Testimonium certificate from Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi if you walk to Rome for religious or cultural reasons.
Present your credential at the office of Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi (Piazza Pio XII, 9) in Saint Peter’s Square (Open Monday to Sunday from 9 am to 5 pm).
In any case, your stamped Via Francigena pilgrim passport or ‘credential’ (as with the Camino de Santiago) will be the proof that you have walked the distance required to apply for the Via Francigena Testimonium and must be stamped from the beginning point of your journey to Rome and all along the way.
First, you must obtain a Via Francigena Pilgrim Credential or Credenziali (see below) and stamp it once a day along the route. You can get stamps from Churches, bars, restaurants and hotels… Any proof that you walked or cycled past the villages along the way will suffice.
Then, you must walk the Via Francigena final 100 km to Rome or cycle the last 200 km of the Via Francigena to Rome.
Finally, your pilgrim credential will qualify you to obtain the Testimonium, which officially recognises your pilgrimage.
What is the Credenziali?
The Credenziali, also known as the “pilgrim passport,” is an essential document for travellers on the Via Francigena. This passport gets stamped at various locations you visit, like tourist offices, churches, lodgings, and eateries.
But this document isn’t just a sentimental keepsake. Issued by the European Association of the Via Francigena (EAVF), the Credential offers multiple perks for pilgrims:
You’ll find special discounts at numerous restaurants, bars and lodgings along the path.
Exclusive travel discounts with certain transportation providers partnering with the EAVF. For instance, you can get a 10% discount on regional train tickets with Trenitalia and Trenord for specific routes. If you prefer taking the bus, a 10% discount is available across the FlixBus network, and you can even bring your bike along.
Purchasing a Credential also helps support the groups who maintain the Via Francigena:
It funds the upkeep and signage of the route and rest stops for pilgrims.
It helps create and distribute maps and informational material for the route.
It maintains a free App available for iPhone and Android, which offers GPS guidance for the entire Via Francigena route, from Canterbury in England to Rome in Italy and the ports of Puglia. The app is even accessible without an internet connection.
It allows for regular updates to the database of accommodations along the route.
It helps maintain the official communication channels of the Via Francigena.
Lastly, your purchase supports the efforts to gain UNESCO recognition for the Via Francigena as an international cultural route.
So, as you see, the Credential is not only a record of your journey but also a way to make your trip smoother while supporting the trail and its community
Where to get your Via Francigena Pilgrim Passport?
Get from the UK
Beaney House of Art and Knowledge of Canterbury, Visitor Information desk, 18 High Street, Canterbury, Kent, CT1 2RA. Ph. 01227 862 162, canterburyinformation at canterbury.gov.uk
In Italy, Get the Pilgrim Passport
Siena – Visitor Information
Santa Maria della Scala Bookshop Entrance: Palazzo Squarcialupi, Piazza Duomo 1, 53100 Siena Phone: +39 0577 283586 Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday, 10:30–18:30
Catechistic Bookshop (Libreria Catechistica) Address: Via dei Fusari 46, 53100 Siena Phone: +39 0577 289171 Email: lib.catechistica at libero.it Opening Hours: – Monday to Thursday: 09:00–13:00 and 15:30–19:30 – Saturday: 09:00–13:00
Lucca – Visitor Information
Via Francigena Entry Point Address: Via dei Bacchettoni 8, 55100 Lucca Phone: +39 334 1046719 Email: info at viafrancigenaentrypoint.eu Opening Hours (Summer): Thursday to Sunday, 10:30–13:00 and 15:00–18:00
Municipal Tourist Office (Comune di Lucca) Location: Vecchia Porta San Donato, Piazzale Verdi, 55100 Lucca Phone: +39 0583 583150 Email: info at luccaitinera.it Opening Hours: – April to October: 09:30–18:30 – November to March: 09:30–16:30
Tourist Center Lucca Address: Piazzale Ricasoli 203, 55100 Lucca Phone: +39 0583 494401 Mobile: +39 338 8213952 Email: info at touristcenterlucca.com Opening Hours: 09:30–19:00 daily
Cathedral Museum of Lucca (Museo della Cattedrale di Lucca) Location: Piazza Antelminelli 5, 55100 Lucca Phone: +39 0583 490530 Email: segreteria at museocattedralelucca.it Opening Hours: – Summer: Monday to Sunday, 10:00–18:00 – Winter: Monday to Friday, 10:00–14:00; Saturday and Sunday, 10:00–18:00
San Miniato – Visitor Information
San Miniato Promotion Foundation (Fondazione San Miniato Promozione) Address: Piazza del Popolo 1, 56028 San Miniato (PI) Phone: +39 0571 42745 Email: ufficio.turismo at sanminiatopromozione.it Opening Hours: – Monday: 09:00–13:00 – Tuesday to Sunday: 09:00–17:00
San Miniato Tourist Association (Associazione Turistica Pro Loco di San Miniato) Address: Piazza del Popolo 31, 56028 San Miniato (PI) Phone: +39 0571 42233 Email: prolocosanminiato at virgilio.it Opening Hours: – Monday to Friday: 09:00–12:00 and 14:30–17:30 – Saturday and Sunday: Open depending on volunteer availability
Viterbo – Visitor Information
Viterbo Tourist Office (Ufficio Turistico di Viterbo) Address: Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria, 01100 Viterbo Phone: +39 0761 226427 Email: info at visit.viterbo.it Opening Hours: – April to October: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00–13:00 and 15:00–19:30 – November to March: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00–13:00 and 15:00–19:00
Bistrot del Teatro Location: Via Cavour 9, 01100 Viterbo Mobile: +39 392 3018173 Email: bistrotdelteatrovt at libero.it Opening Hours: – Tuesday to Friday: 12:00–20:00 – Saturday and Sunday: 14:00–20:00
Q: What is the Testimonium? A: The Testimonium is the official certificate pilgrims receive in Rome after completing at least 100km of the Via Francigena on foot or 200km by bike.
Q: Where do I get the Testimonium? A: You can obtain it in Rome, at the Vatican’s Pilgrim Office near St. Peter’s Basilica, once you present your stamped pilgrim passport.
Q: Do I need a pilgrim passport to receive the Testimonium? A: Yes, you must present your Via Francigena credenziale, stamped along the way, as proof of your journey.
Q: Is there a cost for the Testimonium? A: The Testimonium itself is free, but a small donation is often welcomed to support pilgrim services.
Q: Can cyclists also receive the Testimonium? A: Yes, pilgrims travelling by bike can receive it if they have completed at least 200km with stamps in their pilgrim passport.
Q: What is the difference between the Testimonium and the Compostela?
A: Both are official pilgrim certificates — the Compostela is awarded on the Camino de Santiago for walking at least the last 100 km to Santiago de Compostela. The Testimonium is its equivalent on the Via Francigena, awarded in Rome for walking at least the last 100 km of the Via Francigena. Both require a stamped pilgrim passport as proof of the journey.
Q: Which section of the Via Francigena do I need to walk to qualify?
A: The most popular qualifying section is the Via Francigena from Viterbo to Rome — 112 km over 6 nights, which comfortably exceeds the 100 km minimum. Any starting point at least 100 km from Rome qualifies, provided you have a stamped credenziali throughout.
Customer Experience Agent, Claire hails from the lovely Midlands and spent some years living in Galway in the West of Ireland, where she completed a degree in languages. She also lived several years in France and she has a master's degree in French Language and Literature. She has travelled many routes both on foot and by bike, including the Via Francigena in Tuscany, the Camino del Norte in the Basque Country and Cantabria, the Portuguese Coastal Way and the Camino Ingles.