Pilgrims to Oviedo and not Santiago…

Oviedo: The First Pilgrimage Destination Before Santiago

The city of Oviedo has long been a sacred stop for pilgrims. It is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo (the Original Way) to Santiago de Compostela and is also a prominent stop on the Camino del Norte (Northern Way). Oviedo has held special significance for Christian pilgrims, even those not continuing to Santiago for centuries.

The Holy Chamber: Oviedo’s Spiritual Heart

The San Salvador Cathedral in Oviedo is home to the Holy Chamber, a sacred site with revered religious relics. This 9th-century chamber, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, holds relics that once made it a prime pilgrimage destination. Pilgrims would journey from León to see the Holy Chamber’s relics; many still make this pilgrimage today.

A Saying of Pilgrimage Tradition

An old saying reflects Oviedo’s importance: “Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado pero no a su Señor,” meaning “Those who go to Santiago and not to Salvador visit the servant (St James) and not the Lord (Jesus).” This saying highlights the traditional reverence for San Salvador, underscoring its importance alongside Santiago.

Pilgrimage Trails from León to Oviedo

The Camino trail from León to Oviedo covers approximately 100km and ends at the San Salvador Cathedral. From Oviedo, pilgrims may continue west on the Camino Primitivo towards Santiago or head to Aviles, where they can follow the scenic Asturias coast along the Camino del Norte. These routes offer both spiritual fulfilment and a chance to explore the beauty of northern Spain.

Oviedo’s Rich History and Cultural Treasures

While its religious relics and historic churches draw many visitors, the city offers much more. Established in 1574, the University of Oviedo adds a youthful energy, and the city’s museums and theatres provide cultural enrichment. Oviedo is also home to the annual Principe de Asturias Awards, Spain’s answer to the Nobel Prizes.

Asturian Music and Flavours

In Oviedo, you may encounter the sounds of traditional Asturian bagpipe music and taste classic dishes like fabada (bean stew) and bollu preñao (chorizo-filled bread). Asturias is celebrated for its seafood, and no visit would be complete without trying its renowned natural cider, sidra.

Sidra: A Tasting Tradition

Order sidra at one of the city’s sidrerias, where servers uniquely pour the cider to enhance its flavour. Produced in Asturias, cider is made from local apples and typically contains 5-6% alcohol. If you’re curious about the cider-making process, you can visit the Cider Museum in Nava, a town near Oviedo, where a cider festival occurs each July.

Celebrate Oviedo with the San Mateo Festival

Visiting Oviedo in September offers a chance to experience the San Mateo Festival, a lively week-long event filled with concerts, fireworks, and activities. This vibrant festival draws locals and visitors alike, making it an ideal time to experience the city’s culture.

Woody Allen’s Connection

Did you know filmmaker Woody Allen has a special connection to Oviedo? Part of his film Vicky Cristina Barcelona was shot here, and the city even has a life-size statue in his honour. In 2002, Allen was awarded the Principe de Asturias Award for the Arts, further cementing his bond with Oviedo.

Oviedo: A City of Cider and Pilgrimage

Known as the Spanish capital of cider, or sidra, Oviedo is surrounded by lush apple orchards, especially near Nava and Villaviciosa. Asturias cider is traditionally effervescent from natural fermentation, not carbonation, creating a unique taste and drinking experience.

Cider Culture in Asturias

Asturias’ sidra production is deeply rooted in tradition. Apples naturally ferment for around five months before bottling. The Cider Museum in Nava offers insights into this process, and the annual cider festival each July is a highlight for cider lovers worldwide.

The Holy Shroud of Oviedo: A Revered Relic

The Camino Primitivo, the oldest route to Santiago, begins at Oviedo Cathedral, a site revered for centuries. This 9th-century cathedral houses the Holy Chamber, which contains the Holy Shroud of Oviedo, or Santo Sudario, a relic believed to have covered Jesus’ face after the crucifixion.

When to See the Holy Shroud

The Holy Shroud is extremely delicate and accessible to the public only a few times yearly, usually at Easter and September. For those interested in seeing this sacred relic, check the Oviedo Cathedral website at catedraldeoviedo.com for visiting details.

For pilgrims and travellers alike, Oviedo is an essential stop along the Camino. It is rich with religious history, culture, and flavour. Whether passing through or spending a few days, it promises a memorable experience combining ancient traditions with modern charm. For more information about the Camino de Santiago routes or to book your Camino trip, contact us.