Camino Primitivo
The Camino Primitivo, or Original Camino, is the oldest of the Camino routes to Santiago de Compostela. King Alfonso II of Asturias is considered its first pilgrim, making the journey from Oviedo to Santiago in the 9th century to verify that the remains found there were indeed those of St James the Apostle.
During that time, Oviedo was the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, and the King’s pilgrimage sparked interest, inspiring many others to undertake this spiritual journey to Santiago de Compostela.
Pilgrims on the Camino Primitivo came not only from Asturias and northern Spain but also from more distant regions. Travellers from northern countries would often arrive by sea along Spain’s northern coast before continuing their pilgrimage on foot toward Santiago.
When the capital moved to León, the Camino Francés became the main route to Santiago, particularly from the 11th century onward.
Despite this shift, many pilgrims still make a stop in Oviedo at the San Salvador Cathedral, a revered pilgrimage site. Known as the “Saviour” Cathedral, it holds a relic believed to be the cloth that wrapped Christ’s head after his death.
Today, fewer than 5% of pilgrims to Santiago choose the Camino Primitivo. This route is demanding, but its scenery and history make it a unique experience.
For those unsure about tackling the full Camino Primitivo, it’s possible to begin in Lugo, bypassing the more mountainous areas and covering the last 100 km of this historic route.
Suggested Routes
Highlights of the Camino Primitivo
Here are a few Camino Primitivo highlights:
- Pay homage to San Salvador in Oviedo Cathedral.
- Take in the panoramic mountain views in Grandas de Salime.
- Experience the hospitality of tiny country villages.
- Walk the impressive Roman wall wrapped around Lugo’s old town.
- Sample Pulpo in Melide (octopus), where the Camino Primitivo joins the famous Camino Francés.
Compostela Certificate on The Camino Primitivo
To earn your Compostela certificate in Santiago, you must walk at least the last 100km (starting in Lugo is recommended) or cycle the final 200km of the route. You can customise your route using our Camino Planner, to begin and finish wherever you like.
Camino Ways Route Planner
For over 1000 years, pilgrims from all over the world have walked the Camino Ways across Europe in their quest for spirituality. Making the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, they encountered a variety of people, cultures and beliefs, leading to friendship and new experiences. This continues today with the Camino de Santiago being the most well known and well-loved walk in the world. More than just a walk, the Camino de Santiago is an unforgettable and unique journey for the body, mind and soul.
When to Go on the Camino Primitivo
The weather on the Camino Primitivo can be divided into two parts:
- The northern part of the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo to Lugo. Across the mountainous Cantabrian mountain, it has an extreme climate in winter, with cold and snowy weather. Late spring, summer and early autumn are nice and comfortable.
- The southern part of the Camino from Lugo to Santiago is walkable year-round; however, Galicia is wet in winter and is rarely travelled.
The Terrain on the Camino Primitivo
Its mountainous and challenging terrain makes it a difficult trail for Camino newbies, but perfect for adventurous pilgrims and those looking for a more rustic Camino experience.
The trail is still wonderfully rugged, rural, and untouched in many parts, particularly the first section of the trail from Oviedo to Lugo. As you walk the quiet tracks and forests of the Camino Primitivo, you will nearly feel as if you are stepping back in time.
An easier section of the route starts in Lugo. Lugo is a great little city packed with things to do, see, and taste. It is located over 100 km from Santiago, so it will mean you can get your Compostela certificate.
What To Bring On The Camino Primitivo?
Our Camino packing guide ebook is free to download. This will help you decide what to bring on your Camino.
Camino Primitivo Route Description
The first stage of the Camino Primitivo, across the mountains, is one of the most challenging of all Camino routes, but the scenery is breathtaking.
It will take you approximately two weeks to walk the full Camino Primitivo from Oviedo, which is 311 km. We recommend taking at least one rest day after the first week (Lugo will be a good spot for a rest day). If you’d rather only walk from Lugo, you can complete the trail on foot in just one week.
The Camino Primitivo, along with the Camino del Norte, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015.
Camino from Oviedo to Lugo
Oviedo is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo, but pilgrims from further afield in Northern Spain and Europe traditionally followed this route. The route crosses the Cantabrian Mountains, giving walkers outstanding views of the Picos de Europa, and passes quaint mountain villages in Asturias and Galicia.
Camino from Lugo to Santiago
Camino Primitivo continues from Lugo towards Santiago de Compostela through peaceful forests and farmland, joining the final stretch of the Camino Francés in the lively town of Melide, where you should try Galicia’s most classic dish: Pulpo a la Gallega. The city of Lugo is one of the highlights of this Camino route. Lugo’s old town is nested inside Spain’s only fully preserved Roman wall, an impressive UNESCO World Heritage site.
History Of The Camino Primitivo
King Alphonse II, the Chaste, played an essential role in establishing that the remains unearthed in Compostela belonged to the Apostle St James. He also sponsored building the first basilica in the city and promoted the establishment of the early cult to St James.
The Camino Primitivo was probably a safe and well-traveled route until the present-day Camion Francés from León, the kingdom’s new capital, consolidated its position as the major Camino route in the late 10th century. Nonetheless, the Oviedo route to Santiago remained a popular alternative, due particularly to the spiritual value of the magnificent collection of relics at the cathedral of San Salvador de Oviedo and the Basilica of Lugo with its permanent exhibition of the Holy Sacrament.
The many hospitals set up along the way, especially those in remote spots high up in the mountains, bear witness to the importance of this route. They served a fundamental purpose: attending to the pilgrim, who, in the region of A Fonsagrada, was forced to cross areas of breathtaking beauty yet also represented an arduous challenge for most of the year, with snowstorms, strong winds, and treacherous paths.