Portomarín: The Town That Moved, on the Camino Francés
Portomarín is a historic Galician town on the Camino Francés — famous for having been moved, stone by stone, to higher ground in the 1960s when its original village was flooded by a reservoir. The first major stop after Sarria on the last 100km to Santiago, it welcomes pilgrims with a dramatic climb up from the River Miño, a remarkable fortress-church, and a story of resilience unlike anywhere else on the Camino.
Nestled in the heart of Galicia, Portomarín is a vital stop on one of the Camino de Santiago’s most walked routes, captivating travellers with its rich heritage and picturesque setting. Here, we dive into the history of Portomarín and the layers of time that make it a must-visit for pilgrims and history lovers alike.
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The Remarkable Relocation of Portomarín
In the 1960s, an event unfolded that would forever change the face of Portomarín. The construction of the Belesar Reservoir led to the damming of the Miño River, threatening the original village with submersion. This village, established in the Middle Ages beside a Roman bridge, faced an existential crisis. The response? A bold and unprecedented move to relocate the entire village to higher ground.
Preserving Portomarín’s Heritage
The relocation of Portomarín wasn’t just a matter of moving a community; it was about preserving its historical soul. Key historical structures, like the 12th-century Romanesque church of San Xoán de Portomarín and the Capela de San Pedro, were carefully dismantled, stone by stone, and reconstructed in the new village location. This monumental effort not only saved these historical gems from the rising waters but also symbolically resurrected the town’s history and identity.
Portomarín’s Half-Century Celebration and Hidden Remnants
In June 2013, the ‘new’ Portomarín celebrated a significant milestone – 50 years since its relocation. This anniversary marked a celebration of resilience and renewal. Each summer, as the reservoir’s water levels recede, the remnants of the old village emerge, offering a haunting yet fascinating glimpse into the submerged past. These remnants, including parts of the ancient bridge, serve as poignant reminders of the town’s historical journey.
A Must-Visit Destination with Celebratory Spirit
Today, Portomarín transcends its historical significance to embody a lively, welcoming community. Each September, the town comes alive with the Festas do Cristo, a festival that draws both pilgrims and tourists. This event is a vibrant celebration of Portomarín’s enduring spirit, making it an unmissable destination for anyone journeying along the Camino Francés.
Portomarín on the Camino Francés
Portomarín marks the end of the first stage for most pilgrims walking the final 100km, around 22km from Sarria — which is why it features on our Camino Francés from Sarria to Santiago walking route, the most popular way to earn the Compostela. It’s also counted among the most magical towns on the Camino de Santiago. If you’re deciding where to begin, see our guide to the best starting points for the Camino Francés.
For more information about the routes of the Camino de Santiago or to book your trip, contact us — we’re here to help you plan your perfect pilgrimage.
FAQs about Portomarín
In the 1960s the River Miño was dammed to create the Belesar Reservoir, which flooded the original village. To save the town, Portomarín was relocated to higher ground, and its most important buildings were taken apart stone by stone and rebuilt above.
The highlight is the Romanesque fortress-church of San Nicolás (San Xoán), moved and rebuilt with its stones numbered. Climb the staircase from the old bridge over the Miño, explore the arcaded streets, and try the local orujo spirit. In dry summers, the ruins of the old village reappear from the reservoir.
Portomarín is in Galicia, about 22km from Sarria — the end of the first stage for most pilgrims walking the last 100km of the Camino Francés to Santiago.
Yes, sometimes. When the reservoir’s water level drops in summer, remnants of the old village and its bridge emerge from the water.
