Full Camino Primitivo From Oviedo to Santiago

You arrive in Oviedo.

Explore the delightful city of Oviedo, capital of Asturias, and a traditional pilgrimage destination for centuries. Oviedo is also a busy and lively University town. Make sure to visit some of the city’s many monuments, including the elegant El Salvador cathedral, 9th century San Miguel de Lillo, the church of San Tirso and the Monastery of San Vicente, home to the Archaeology Museum of Asturias.

Your Camino Primitivo starts from the Cathedral of El Salvador in Oviedo city and takes you west out of town. After passing the chapel of El Carmen in Lampajúa (Llampaxuga) the trail takes you downhill to Ponte de Gallegos. The Camino trail from here follows the wonderful Nora river before making a steep climb to picturesque village of Escamplero. You will cross the river Nalón on your way to the village of Grado.

Today’s stage on the Camino Primitivo starts with a relatively tough 5 kilometres climb to Alto del Fresnu. The next part of the stage will be much easier walking, heading back down past small villages and hilly farmland. You will be also passing the San Salvador Monastery, which is well worth a visit. After Cornellana there is some more climbing to do, passing many square-shaped ‘hórreos’, the traditional granaries in the Asturias region, before a gentle approach to Salas.

Although this is a relatively short stage of the Camino, it is also quite a tough one due to the elevation. However most of the climbing will be done in the first part of the day, so the afternoon should prove a bit easier. After a short walk on a national road, the Camino Primitivo moves on to a more peaceful path taking pilgrims up La Espina. Here you will split from the Northern Way – Camino del Norte, heading North West and head into an area that is very rich in regional traditions and has plenty of charm and character.

Today’s stage on the Camino Primitivo takes you through some more challenging, hilly terrain. The route takes you across lovely peaceful forests as well as the village of Vega de Rey. The final part of today’s section to Pola de Allande involves a sharp 300m descent.

After Pola de Allande, the Camino has another relatively tough 600m climb in store for pilgrims, heading up to Puerto del Palo summit. However, your efforts will be rewarded with magnificent views of the Cantabrian Mountains. From here, you will take a 250m descent following a trail known as ‘Camino de los Hospitales’, with some technical sections. You will pass beautiful, tranquil forests as you make your way to Berducedo, your stop for the night.

Today is probably the toughest section of the whole Original Way but also the most rewarding. From Berducedo you will climb to Aerogenedores at an altitude of 1100m. From here you should be able to admire the magnificent views over the river Navia and Embalse de Salime, a reservoir surrounded by mountains. After this, you will drop 900m in just 7km to the Embalse de Salime dam. After this sharp descent, the Camino follows a gentle climb to Grandas de Salime.

You will begin today’s day on the Camino with another sharp climb to El Acebo, at 1050m. From Acebo you will enjoy spectacular views of the Cantabrian Mountains and move from Asturias into Galicia which is known as the land of the Celts. Today’s destination is A Fonsagrada, after passing the villages of Fonfría and Barbeitos first. A Fonsagrada is reputed to have been the site of one St James’ miracles. It is said that after being approached by an impoverished woman, he turned the water from the fountain in the centre of the town (Fons Secra) into milk for her children.

From A Fonsagrada the trail takes you to A Pobra de Burón on what is known as the Camino de Oviedo. You will see the ruins of Hospital de Montouto on a hilltop, which was once the most important of the mountain pilgrim hospitals in Galicia. The Camino then follows a path through the villages of Calzada, A Lastra and A Fontaneira on the way to the town of O Cadavo – Baleira. It is said that Alfonso II the Chaste fought the Moors in battle nearby.

On the way to Pradeda, a lovely old village, you will pass some of the region’s famous slate quarries. The village itself is home to a number of old thatched dwellings known in Galicia as ‘pallozas’. You will pass by the convent of San Francisco de Vilabade on the way to Castroverde, and then the abandoned village of Soutomerille in a beautiful setting. After passing through more farmland the Camino enters the city of Lugo, with its rich Roman heritage and impressive UNESCO-listed Roman wall.

Lugo is home to the best preserved Roman wall in Europe, stretching over 2km wrapped around the city’s old town. Explore the gorgeous town centre, go for a stroll on the wall to get a different perspective of the city and taste delicious (generally free) ‘pinchos’ in the bars and restaurants near Praza de Santa María before you head back home or continue your Camino to Santiago. If you are travelling in October, don’t miss the traditional San Froilán festivities.

The Camino leaves Lugo by the Cathedral and through the oldest gate of the city wall which is called Porta Miñá (referring to the Miño River). From here you will walk to the quarter of San Lázaro and cross the old Roman Bridge. After a few kilometres you will pass a national monument and museum called Santa Eulalia de Bóveda, housing some of the most fascinating early medieval paintings of the entire Iberian Peninsula. The trail heads to San Román da Retorta through farms and woodland.

The Original Way follows ancient tracks still very much in use today, connecting many small country villages and hamlets in the area, such as Seixalvo, Xende, Ferreira and Merlán. The route continues through Toques and into the historic town of Melide in the province of A Coruña. This is where the Original Way or Camino Primitivo joins the French Way. You will notice the volume of pilgrims will be much higher from now on. You should take the opportunity to sample ‘pulpo’ (octopus) in one of the many ‘pulperías’ (octopus restaurants) in town and grab a few ‘melindres’, Melide’s traditional aniseed cakes.

As you leave Melide you will be now walking with other pilgrims on the Camino Francés (French Way), following forest tracks, crossing many pretty streams and meadows, on your way to the village of Boente where you will see the Santiago Church. You will pass the picturesque village of Ribadiso on your way to today’s destination, Arzúa. Arzúa is in the heart of dairy country, make sure you try some of the local cheese. Worth visiting the church of Santa María and the church of A Magdalena in town.

Today’s Camino trail takes you mostly across peaceful forests and small hamlets. Along the way you will pass the chapel of Santa Irene, home to interesting St James statues. This stage of the Camino continues along serene country roads. Your stop for the night is the town of Pedrouzo where you can spot a few traditional ‘hórreos’ (granaries) and granite farmhouses.

This is the final walking day of your Camino journey to Santiago de Compostela. From Pedrouzo the route takes you to Amenal and on to Lavacolla. Lavacolla name comes from the fact that pilgrims used to wash themselves in the river here before reaching Santiago. The trail to Monte do Gozo or ‘Mount of Joy’ is lined with ever-present eucalyptus trees. The hill itself is topped with an enormous sculpture commemorating the visit of John Paul II to Santiago. From here the Camino descends to Santiago de Compostela. You will enter Santiago by the bustling Rúa de San Pedro and into the old town by Porta do Camiño. You have arrived!

You have arrived in Santiago de Compostela! After visiting the cathedral and recovering from your walk, take time to explore this gem of a city, small but vibrant. Santiago’s UNESCO listed old town will enchant you. Here you will find not only pilgrims but also locals and students, enjoying a few bites over a glass of wine in the many bars, restaurants and cosy cafes.