Melide: A Gem on the Camino Francés
Melide is a market town in the province of A Coruña, roughly 55 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela on the Camino Francés. It is the point where the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Francés, it is the most famous place on the entire route to eat pulpo a feira, and it is home to what is widely considered the oldest wayside cross in Galicia. For pilgrims walking the final 100km of the Camino Francés from Sarria to Santiago, it is one of the most rewarding stops on the way.
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Where is Melide on the Camino Francés?
Melide lies between Palas de Rei and Arzúa, about three days’ walk from Santiago de Compostela. Most pilgrims reach it on the third or fourth stage after leaving Sarria, having already passed through Portomarín.
It is also the meeting point of two Caminos. Walkers arriving on the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo join the Camino Francés here, which is why the path noticeably busier from Melide onwards. If you want to see how the stages fit together before you set out, our Camino Francés map sets out the full route.
The Cruceiro de Melide: Galicia’s oldest wayside cross
The Cruceiro de Melide stands in the town centre beside the Chapel of San Roque, on Avenida de Lugo, and is believed to date from the 14th century, making it the oldest stone cross in Galicia. The column supporting it is a later addition, but the cross itself is Gothic in style.
It is carved on both faces. One side shows the crucifixion of Christ; the other, a seated, majestic Christ in glory. Historians believe the cross may originally have belonged to the old Church of Saint Peter in Melide.
The Galician writer and artist Castelao documented it in As Cruces de Pedra na Galiza, his study of the stone crosses that punctuate the Galician landscape. Cruceiros like this one marked crossroads, boundaries and places of prayer, and few walking routes in Europe have as many of them as the Camino. It is one of the landmarks we include in our ten things to see on the Camino Francés.
Indulge in Melide’s Local Flavours
Melide is considered the pulpo capital of the Camino, despite sitting some 60 kilometres inland from the Atlantic. The tradition dates back to the medieval cattle and livestock fairs, when octopus was brought inland from the Galician coast, dried and cooked for traders and pilgrims passing through.
Pulpo a feira is octopus boiled in a copper pot, snipped into rounds with scissors, and served on a wooden plate with coarse salt, paprika and a generous pour of olive oil, usually with boiled potatoes and a bowl of young Ribeiro wine. Melide’s pulperías are an institution, and for many walkers the meal is the single thing they remember most vividly about the final week. There is more on what to eat along the route in our guide to food on the Camino Francés.
Melindres and the sweet side of Melide
Whether you’re drawn to history, culture, or cuisine, Melide is a destination full of charm. Contact our travel specialists today for more information about exploring the Camino de Santiago routes or to book your journey.
Melide is also known for its melindres, small ring shaped sweets glazed in sugar, along with ricos and amendoados, almond based pastries sold in the town’s traditional bakeries. They travel well in a rucksack and have fuelled a great many afternoons of walking.
